The green slopes north of the Garonne, the Côtes de Bourg and Côtes de Blaye, were home to wine production long before the Médoc was planted. The wine is a rather heavier, plummier red, and cheaper than anything found on the opposite side of the river, and the Maison du Vin des Premières Côtes de Blaye on cours Vauban (Mon–Sat 8.30am–12.15pm & 2–6pm), the main street of the pretty little town of BLAYE, serves up a representative selection of the local produce, with some ridiculously inexpensive wines – you can get a good bottle for around €5.Blaye has long played a strategic role defending Bordeaux, and was fortified by Vauban in the seventeenth century. The citadelle deserves a wander; people still live here, and it's a strange combination of peaceful village and tourist attraction. A beautiful spot, it has grass, trees, birds and a spectacular view over the Gironde estuary. Blaye is also the last resting place of the heroic paladin Roland, whose body was brought here in 778 after the battle of Roncevaux. However, his mausoleum is now no more than a heap of rocks. The riverfront tourist office, opposite the fort (July & Aug daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm; Sept–June Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; tel 05.57.42.12.09) is really helpful and can reserve rooms free of charge and give out details on wine tasting. If you fancy staying here, try the Auberge du Porche, 5 rue Ernest-Régnier (tel 05.57.42.22.69, fax 05.57.42.82.83; €40–55; closed one week in March & one week in Oct), a pleasant two-star south along the riverfront with a good-value restaurant (closed Sun evening & Mon off season; from €8.84). Alternatively, there's the more expensive Hôtel La Citadelle within the old fort with views over the Garonne (tel 05.57.42.17.10, fax 05.57.42.10.34; €70–85; restaurant from €22.87). Finally, there's a small municipal campsite within the citadelle (tel 05.57.42.00.20; closed Oct–April).
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