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Sainte Croix church © Vincent Rousserie

Airlines Air France tel 05.56.44.05.69; Air Liberté tel 08.03.80.58.05; British Airways tel 08.02.80.29.02.

Bike rental Bord'eaux Velo Loisirs (tel 05.56.44.77.31), on quai Louis-XVIII beside the Quinconces boat dock, rents out everything from bikes to rollerblades and baby-strollers (closed Mon & Thurs; open afternoons only Oct–May). Another option is Cycles Pasteur at 42 cours Pasteur (tel 05.56.92.68.20).

Books and newspapers Maison de la Presse, at 61 rue Ste-Catherine and place Gambetta, sells the main English-language papers in addition to some regional guides and maps. Bordeaux's largest bookstore, Mollat, 15 rue Vital-Carles, has a good selection of local guides and maps. They also stock a few English-language titles, though there's a better choice at helpful Bradley's Bookshop, 8 cours d'Albret.

Car rental Numerous rental firms are located in and around the train station, including Avis tel 05.56.91.65.50; Budget tel 05.56.31.41.40; Europcar tel 05.56.31.20.30; Hertz tel 05.57.59.05.95; and National/Citer tel 05.56.92.19.62. They all have outlets at the airport as well.

Cinema You're most likely to find original-language (version originale, or v.o.) films at the wonderful art-house cinema Utopia, 5 place Camille-Jullian (tel 05.56.52.00.03), in a converted church. Other good options include Trianon-Jean Vigo, 6 rue Franklin, near place des Grands-Hommes (tel 05.56.44.35.17), and UGC Cinécité, 13–15 rue Georges-Bonnac (tel 08.36.68.68.58). For more standard fare, there's the vast, new seventeen-screen Megarama (tel 08.36.69.33.17) across the Pont de Pierre in the old Gare d'Orléans.

Consulates UK, 353 bd du Président-Wilson tel 05.57.22.21.10.

Emergencies To call an ambulance, phone SAMU on 15 or 05.56.96.70.70.

Hitching Allostop, 79 cours d'Argonne tel 05.57.95.60.74.

Hospital Centre Hospitalier Pellegrin-Tripode, place Amélie-Raba-Léon (tel 05.56.79.56.79), to the west of central Bordeaux.

Internet Cyberstation, 23 cours Pasteur and 8 rue de la Devise, is a friendly and helpful cybercafé with rates from €2 per hour (before 2pm).

Money exchange American Express, 14 cours de l'Intendance (Mon–Fri 8.45am–noon & 1.30–5.30pm), handles most travellers' cheques and foreign currencies. The main banks along cours de l'Intendance also offer exchange facilities and 24hr ATMs.

Police Commissariat Central, 87 rue Abbé-de-l'Épée (tel 05.56.99.77.77), or call 17.