From the gare SNCF, to get to the central place François-I, go down rue Mousnier, right on rue Bayard, past the PTT and up rue du 14-Juillet. The square is dominated by an equestrian statue of the king rising from a bed of begonias. The tourist office is on rue du 14-Juillet at no. 16 (daily: July & Aug 9am–6.15pm; Sept–June 9am–12.30pm & 2–6.15pm; tel 05.45.82.10.71, www.ville-cognac.fr), where you can ask about visiting the various chais and the St-Gobain glassworks, as well as get information on river trips.As for rooms, the cheapest are at Le Cheval Blanc, 6–8 place Bayard (tel 05.45.82.09.55, fax 05.45.82.14.82; €30–40), with a simple inexpensive restaurant downstairs, and the Hotel St-Martin, 112 av Paul Firino-Martell (tel & fax 05.45.35.01.29; €30–40), whose restaurant serves a respectable €9.60 dinner menu. For something with a bit more comfort, try one of these: the characterful Hôtel d'Orleans, 25 rue d'Angoulême (tel 05.45.82.01.26, fax 05.45.82.20.33; €30–40), in a calm pedestrianized street in the old part of town; La Résidence, 25 av Victor-Hugo (tel 05.45.36.62.40, fax 05.45.36.62.49; €40–55), an attractive two-star with a clean modern interior; or L'Étape, a little further out on the N141 at 2 av d'Angoulême (tel 05.45.32.16.15, fax 05.45.36.20.03; €40–55). Upstream from the bridge, the oak woods of the Parc François-I – where there's swimming in the river or a pool – stretch along the riverbank to the Pont Chatenay and the town campsite (tel 05.45.32.13.32). For eating out, the relaxed and friendly La Bonne Goule, 42 allée de la Corderie (tel 05.45.82.06.37; closed Sun evening; from €11), serves up excellent Charentais specialities at inexpensive prices, and there's a good list of local wines. Those after a dining experience will find it at La Boîte-à-Sel, 68 av Victor-Hugo (tel 05.45.32.07.68; closed Mon), a seasoned restaurant with an emphasis on fresh natural produce; the good-value €12 menu gets you a plat from the €15.55 menu de marché and a dessert or entrée; the excellent menu des gourmets will set you back €30. There's also good brasserie fare to be had at the Coq d'Or on the central place François-Ier (tel 05.45.82.02.56).
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