PERROS-GUIREC is the most popular resort along this coast, though not perhaps the most exciting, consisting largely of a network of tree-lined avenues of suburban villas. It does stand, however, at one end of the long Sentier des Douaniers pathway, which winds round the clifftops to the tiny resort of PLOUMANAC'H past an astonishing succession of deformed and water-sculpted rocks. Birds wheel overhead towards the offshore bird sanctuary of Sept-Îles, and battered boats shelter in the narrow inlets or bob uncontrollably out on the waves. There are patches and brief causeways of grass, clumps of purple heather and yellow gorse. Occasionally the rocks have crumbled into a sort of granite grit to make up a tiny beach; one boulder is strapped down by bands of ivy that prevent it rolling into the sea.Perros-Guirec's extremely efficient tourist office is at 21 place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville (July & Aug MonSat 9am7.30pm, Sun 10am12.30pm & 47pm; SeptJune MonSat 9am12.30pm & 26.30pm; www.perros-guirec.com). Hotels in Perros-Guirec itself include the old-fashioned Les Violettes, 19 rue du Calvaire (tel 02.96.23.21.33; under €30), which has a seriously cheap restaurant, and two places with sea views: the Gulf Stream, high on the hillside at 26 rue des Sept-Îles (tel 02.96.23.21.86; under €30; closed Jan), and the Bon Accueil, 11 rue de Landerval (tel 02.96.23.25.77; €4055), which has a gourmet restaurant. Ploumanac'h offers the St-Guirec et de la Plage (tel 02.96.91.40.89, www.hotelsaint-guirec.com; €3040; closed mid-Nov to mid-Feb, and most of March), which has some lovely sea-view rooms at bargain rates, and serves a simple good-value menu to all guests in a separate dining room. The Hôtel du Parc, on the main square nearby (tel 02.96.91.40.80; €4055; closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec & Jan), has more reasonably priced rooms, and serves good seafood menus from €12. The nicest place to camp is the four-star Le Ranolien (tel 02.96.91.43.58, [email protected]; closed late Sept to March), backing onto the Sentier des Douaniers near a little beach about halfway round, but directly accessible on the other side by road. Alternate spellings:: France, Ploumanac'h, Ploumanac'h, Ploumanac'h
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