| Today you can again take barges all the way to the Loire from PONTIVY, the central junction of the Nantes–Brest canal, where the course of the canal breaks off once more from the Blavet. When the waterway opened, the small medieval centre of the town was expanded, redesigned and given broad avenues to fit its new role. It was even briefly renamed Napoléonville, in honour of the man responsible for its new prosperity. These days, Pontivy is a bright market town, its twisting old streets contrasting with the stately riverside promenades. At its northern end, occupying a commanding hillside site, is the Château de Rohan, built by the lord of Josselin in the fifteenth century (June–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; Oct–May Wed–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; €4). Used in summer for low-key cultural events and temporary exhibitions, the castle still belongs to the Josselin family, who are slowly restoring it. At the moment, one impressive facade, complete with deep moat and two forbidding towers, looks out over the river – behind that, the structure rather peters out. Pontivy's helpful tourist office is just below the castle, on place de Gaulle (Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 02.97.25.04.10). Among local hotels are the low-priced Porhoët, nearby at 41 rue du Général-de-Gaulle (tel 02.97.25.34.88, [email protected]; €30–40), and the grander De l'Europe, 12 rue François-Mitterand (tel 02.97.25.11.14; €40–55), which has a good restaurant. In addition, the local hostel, 2km from the gare SNCF on the Île des Récollets (tel 02.97.25.58.27; €8.08), is in good condition and serves cheap meals.
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