The enormous Cathédrale St-Corentin, the focal point of Quimper, is said to be the most complete Gothic cathedral in Brittany, though its neo-Gothic spires date from 1856. When the nave was being added to the old chancel in the fifteenth century, the extension would either have hit existing buildings or the swampy edge of the then-unchannelled river. The masons eventually found a solution and placed the nave at a slight angle – a peculiarity which, once noticed, makes it hard to concentrate on the other Gothic splendours within. The exterior, however, gives no hint of the deviation, with King Gradlon now mounted in perfect symmetry between the spires.Facing the cathedral on its north side, the Musée des Beaux-Arts, 4 place St-Corentin (July & Aug daily 10am–7pm; Sept, Oct & April–May daily except Tues 10am–noon & 2–6pm; Nov–March Mon & Wed–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 2–6pm; €3.85), houses amazing collections of drawings by Cocteau, Gustave Doré and Max Jacob (who was born in Quimper), paintings of the Pont-Aven school and Breton scenes by the likes of Eugène Boudin. Only the old Dutch oils upstairs let the collection down. The heart of old Quimper lies west of place St-Corentin, in front of the cathedral. This is where you'll find the liveliest shops and cafés, housed in the old half-timbered buildings, such as the Breton Keltia-Musique record shop in place au Beurre and the Celtic shop, Ar Bed Keltiek, at 2 rue Gradlon. The old market hall burnt down in 1976, but the light and spacious Halles St-Francis in rue Astor, built to replace it, are quite a delight, not just for the food but for the view past the upturned boat rafters through the roof to the cathedral's twin spires. South of the covered market, on the opposite bank of the Odet at 14 rue Jean-Baptiste-Bosquet, is the excellent Musée de la Faïence Jules Verlinque (mid-April to Oct Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; €4). The museum tells the story of Quimper's long association with faïence – tin-glazed earthenware – which has been made in and around the town since 1690, and demonstrates that little has changed in the Breton pottery business since some unknown artisan hit on the idea of painting ceramic ware with naive "folk" designs. That was in around 1875, when the coming of the railways brought the first influx of tourists, and a consequent demand for souvenirs. Highlights of the collection include pieces commemorating such events as the Great War, the first automobile accident and the death of Zola, but there are also some fascinating specimens produced by fine artists in the 1920s. As you walk through the town, it's impossible to ignore faïence – you're invited to look and to buy on every corner. On weekdays, it's also possible to visit the major atelier H.-B. Henriot, in the allées de Locmarion just behind the museum (March–June & Sept Mon–Fri 9am–11.15am & 1.30–4.15pm; July & Aug Mon–Fri 9am–11.15am & 1.30–4.45pm; Oct–Feb Tours only Mon–Thurs 11am & 3.45pm; tel 02.98.90.09.36, www.hb-henriot.com; €3). H.-B. Henriot maintain two bright, modern gift shops alongside; the prices, even for the seconds, are similar to those on offer everywhere else, but the selection is superb.
| 