On the edge of the marshes of the Grande-Brière, just before you come to the sea, stands the tiny, gorgeous walled town of GUÉRANDE. It gave its name to this peninsula, and derived its fortune from controlling the salt pans that form a chequerboard across the surrounding inlets. This "white country" is composed of bizarre-looking oeillets, each 70 to 80 square metres in extent, in which sea water has been collected and evaporated since Roman times.Guérande today is still entirely enclosed by its stout fifteenth-century ramparts. Although you can't walk along them, a spacious promenade leads right the way around the outside, passing four fortified gateways; for half its length the broad old moat remains filled with water. The main entrance, the Porte St-Michel on the east side of town, now holds a small museum of local history (daily: April–Sept 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm; Oct 10am–noon & 2–6pm; €3). Guérande's tourist office is just outside the Porte St-Michel at 1 place du Marché au Bois (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 10am–1pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 1.30–6pm; tel 02.40.24.96.71). Tucked out of sight behind the market, the pretty Roc-Maria, 1 rue des Halles (tel 02.40.24.90.51; €40–55; closed Tues in low season), offers cosy rooms above a crêperie in a fifteenth-century town house. To the north, opposite the Porte Vannetoise and the most impressive stretch of ramparts, the Hôtel des Voyageurs, 1 place du 8 Mai 1945 (tel 02.40.24.90.13; €40–55; closed Sun evening & Mon in low season), is a logis serving good menus from €17. Alternate spellings:: France, Guérande, Guérande, Guerande
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