The small port of LE CROISIC, sheltering from the ocean around the corner of the headland, is a more attractive place to stay than La Baule. These days it's basically a pleasure port, but fishing boats do still sail from its harbour, near the very slender mouth of the bay, and there's a modern fish market near the long Tréhic jetty, where you can watch the day's catch being auctioned. The hills on either side of the harbour, Mont Lenigo and Mont Esprit, are not natural; they were formed from the ballast left by the ships of the salt trade. If you're staying, choose between the hotels Les Nids, 15 rue Pasteur (tel 02.40.23.00.63, €55–70; closed Oct–March), or the purple and white Estacade, near the end of the port at 4 quai de Lénigo (tel 02.40.23.03.77; €40–55), where the €15 menu includes soupe de poissons and fish of the day.Close by, all around the rocky sea coast known as the Grande Côte, are a range of campsites, including the Océan (tel 02.40.23.07.69; closed Oct–March). For equally good beaches and a chance of cheaper hotel accommodation, you could go east past La Baule to Pornichet (though preferably keeping away from the plush marina) or to the tiny St-Marc, where in 1953 Jacques Tati filmed Monsieur Hulot's Holiday.
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