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Tour solidor

Though almost all St-Malo buses, whether local or long-distance, coincide also with trains at the gare SNCF – 2km out from the citadelle on place Hermine, and convenient neither for the old town nor the ferry – the gare routière is officially an expanse of concrete right next to the tourist office. The two main local bus companies both have ticket offices here: the Compagnie de Transport d'Ille et Vilaine (TIV; tel 02.99.40.82.67), which runs services to Dinard, Dinan, Cancale, Combourg and Rennes, and Les Courriers Bretons (tel 02.99.19.70.70, www.lescourriersbretons.fr), which goes to Cancale, Mont St-Michel, Dol, Rennes and Fougères, and also runs day-trips to Mont St-Michel (Tues–Sat in July & Aug, Tues–Thurs & Sat April–June, Sept & Oct; €18).

St-Malo is always busy with boats. From the Terminal Ferry du Naye (tel 02.99.40.64.41), Brittany Ferries (www.brittany-ferries.com) sails to Portsmouth (mid-March to mid-Nov daily at 10.45am, otherwise less frequently; 8hr 45min), while Condor Ferries (tel 02.99.20.03.00; www.condorferries.co.uk) connect in summer with both Weymouth (via Guernsey; late March to Sept, 1 daily, 4hr 30min–8hr 30min) and Poole (late May to Oct; 2 daily; 4hr 30min).

Between April and early November, regular passenger ferries to Dinard operate from the quai Dinan, in front of the port (Émeraude Lines; tel 02.23.18.15.15; www.emeraudelines.com; €3.40 single, €5.40 return, bikes €2.80 each way); the trip across the estuary takes an all-too-short ten minutes. Émeraude Lines also conducts excursions up the river to Dinan, day-trips to and from Granville in Normandy, and cruises along the Brittany coast.

St-Malo's helpful tourist office (April–June & Sept Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–7pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; July & Aug Mon–Sat 8.30am–8pm, Sun 10am–7pm; Oct–March Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–6pm; tel 02.99.56.64.48; www.saint-malo-tourisme.com) is right in front of the city walls, beside the Bassin Duguay-Trouin in the Port des Yachts. For Internet access, head to Cop' Imprim, just west of the gare SNCF at 39 bd des Talards (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–noon; €8 per hr).

Bicycles can be rented from Les Velos Bleus, 47 quai Duguay-Trouin (tel 02.99.40.31.63; www.velos-bleus.fr), or Cycles Nicole, 11 rue Robert-Schumann in Paramé (tel 02.99.56.11.06).