If you're interested in pre-Roman France, there is one compelling reason for going to CHÂTILLON-SUR-SEINE: the so-called Treasure of Vix. Housed in the town's museum in the Maison Philandrier, 7 rue du Bourg, close to the centre (July & Aug daily 10am–6pm; Sept–June daily except Tues 9.30am–noon & 2–5pm; €5.30), it consists of the finds from the sixth-century BC tomb of a Celtic princess buried in a four-wheeled chariot at Vix, 6km northwest of Châtillon. In addition to pieces of the chariot, the finds include staggeringly beautiful jewellery, Greek vases and Etruscan bowls. But the best object on show is a gloriously simple gold tiara, actually found on the princess's head, and the largest bronze vase (krater) of Greek origin known from antiquity. It stands an incredible 1.64m high on triple tripod legs, and around its rim is a superbly modelled high-relief frieze depicting naked hoplites and horse-drawn chariots, with Gorgons' heads for handles. How these magnificent objects found their way to such a remote place is a mystery. One explanation lies in the fact that the village of Vix is the highest navigable point on the Seine, and it's thought that the Celtic chieftains who controlled it received such gifts, possibly from traders in Cornish tin shipped south from Britain via here on its way to the Adriatic, or perhaps to the bronze workers of Bibracte, the capital of the Aedui.the town of Châtillon has a few other points of interest. On the rocky bluff overlooking the steep-pitched roofs of Châtillon's old quarter are the ruins of a castle and the early Romanesque church of St Vorles. At its foot in a luxuriantly verdant spot, a spring swells out of the rock to join the infant Seine. The tourist office is off place Marmont (April–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 1.30–6.30pm, Sun 10am–noon; Nov–March Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 03.80.91.13.19). If you decide to stay, try the Sylvia, 9 av de la Gare (tel 03.80.91.02.44, [email protected]; €40–55), which stands in attractive grounds, or the three-star Hôtel de la Côte d'Or, 2 rue Charles-Ronot (tel 03.80.91.13.29, fax 03.80.91.29.15; €55–70; closed mid-Nov to Jan), which has a good restaurant (from €15). Alternate spellings:: France, Châtillon-sur-Seine, Châtillon-sur-Seine, Chatillon-sur-Seine
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