Most visitors arrive by car or coach, but cycling is a pleasant way of covering the 20km from Avallon to Vézelay, despite the final ascent. Otherwise those without transport are reduced to taking a taxi (tel 03.86.32.31.88; €15–20) from the train station at Sermizelles, 10km from Vézelay on the Auxerre–Avallon line (Mon–Sat 5–7 daily). Vézelay's small tourist office (daily 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; Nov to mid-June closed Thurs; tel 03.86.33.23.69, [email protected]) is on the right of rue St-Pierre as you go up towards the abbey.For accommodation, you'll need to book far in advance at weekends and in high season. There are only two hotels in the old town: La Terrasse (tel 03.86.33.25.50; €30–40; closed March & Tues outside July/Aug) has seven good-value rooms, and the location right outside the church is excellent; at the other end of the scale, Le Pontot (tel 03.86.33.24.40, fax 03.86.33.30.05; over €85) must have one of the most beautiful situations in Burgundy, with its terrace enclosed by ancient stone walls, and the rooms are high quality. Just opposite, Au Porc Epic (tel 03.86.33.32.16; €40–55) offers comfortable chambres d'hôtes. Most of the town hotels cluster round busy place Champ-du-Foire, at the foot of town: Le Compostelle (tel 03.86.33.28.63, fax 03.86.33.34.34; €40–55) is a good choice. If you can find someone to let you in, it's well worth trying the eccentric Maison St-Bernard (under €30), a pilgrim's hostel at the foot of rue des Écoles, in a quiet part of town. The youth hostel is about 1km along the route de l'Étang (tel 03.86.33.24.18; closed Jan); it has camping space (closed mid-Oct to April). Alternatively, the little farming village of BRÈVES, right beside the Yonne, midway between Vézelay and Clamecy has a beautiful little campsite (closed mid-Sept to mid-June). Vézelay's restaurants are mostly rather touristy and overpriced, and at lunchtime you're better off with a picnic, but Le Bougainville, on Rue St-Étienne just before it becomes rue St-Pierre (tel 03.86.33.27.57; closed Tues, Wed & Nov–Feb), serves good regional cuisine in a genteel dining room.
| 