Auberge San Martino place de l'Église, San Martino-di-Lota, 11km north of Bastia tel 04.95.32.23.68. One of the most convivial and best-value restaurants in the region, and reason enough to venture out along the corniche – a spectacular drive in itself. Exposed beams and old farm tools set the tone. The food's copious, inexpensive and authentically local: anchovies à la Bastiaise, game stews and wild boar lasagne, with home-made migliaccoli or fiadone for dessert. Menus €13–18; closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan.La Braise 7 bd Hyacinte-de-Montrea/bd Général Giraud tel 04.95.31.36.97. Authentic Corsican pizzeria, whose succulent meat dishes and pizzas, cooked over wood grills with maquis herbs, have made its owner – a "Russian-Chuwawa-Indian retired boxer" – a local celebrity. €20 for the works, or €7–10 for pizzas. Closed Sun & Aug. A Casarelle 6 rue Ste-Croix tel 04.95.32.02.32. Innovative Corsican-French cuisine served on a terrace on the edge of the citadelle. The chef's specialities are traditional dishes of the Balagne, such as casgiate (nuggets of fresh cheese baked in fragrant chestnut leaves) or the rarely prepared storzapreti – balls of brocciu, spinach and herbs in tomato sauce. €20–25 per head. Closed Sat & Sun lunchtimes. La Citadelle 6 rue du Dragon, Citadelle tel 04.95.31.44.70. One of the finest places to eat on the island, in the heart of Terra Nova. Sumptuous French cuisine served in a cellar with mellow lighting and an old olive press in the corner. Prices are high (€30.50 for the three-course menu fixe, or around €40 per head à la carte without wine), but you get what you pay for. And be sure to leave room for the desserts. U Tianu 4 rue Rigo tel 04 95 31 36 67. Tiny, family-run restaurant with lots of atmosphere hidden in a narrow backstreet behind the Vieux Port. Their limited but excellent-value menus (€20–23) change daily but feature typical country dishes.
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