| Buses from Marseille arrive at rond-point du Pressoir between the port and the beach. The gare SNCF is 3km out of town, with five bus connections daily. The tourist office is at Gustau Calendal, quai des Moulins in the port (June & Sept daily 9am–6pm; July & Aug daily 9am–8pm; Oct–May Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm, Sat 10am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm; tel 04.42.01.71.17, www.cassis.fr). Cheap rooms in high season don't exist in Cassis. The least expensive are at Le Commerce, 1 rue St-Clair (tel 04.42.01.09.10, fax 04.42.01.14.17; €30–40), and Le Provençal, 7 av Victor-Hugo (tel 04.42.01.72.13; €40–55), close to the port. For a little more money, and a view over the port, try Le Golfe, on quai Calendal (tel 04.42.01.00.21, fax 04.42.01.92.08; €55–70; closed Nov–March). Further out, there's also Le Joli Bois, route de la Gineste (tel 04.42.01.02.68; €40–55; half-board obligatory in season), just off the main road to Marseille, 3km from Cassis and with few amenities. Far more isolated is the gorgeously scenic but rather inaccessible hostel La Fontasse, in the hills above the calanques west of Cassis (tel 04.42.01.02.72; open all year); from the D559 (stop "Les Calanques"), a road leads down towards the Col de la Gardiole, and when it becomes a track, take the left fork, and after another 2km you'll find the hostel. Rainwater, beds (€8) and electricity are the only mod cons, but if you want to explore this wild uninhabited stretch of limestone heights, the people running it are happy to give advice. To get to Cassis you can descend to the calanques and walk along the coast (about 1hr). If you're camping, don't bother going into town – the campsite, Les Cigales (tel 04.42.01.07.34; closed mid-Nov to mid-March), is just off the D559 from Marseille before avenue de la Marne turns down into Cassis, a gruelling one-kilometre walk from the port. Restaurant tables are in abundance along the portside quai des Baux; prices vary greatly, but if you can afford it your best bet has to be to follow your nose, and seek out the most enticing fish smells. The authentic Provençal ratatouille and freshly caught fish at Chez Gilbert, 19 quai Baux (tel 04.42.01.71.36; closed Tues evening & Wed; menu €20), are hard to beat. El Sol, at no. 23 (tel 04.42.01.76.10; closed Wed), with less elaborate terroir fare, costs a bit less, as do restaurants on the back streets, such as the family-run La Boulangerie, 19 rue Michel Arnaud (tel 04.42.01.38.31), a pâtisserie which also does light regional dishes.
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