ARGENTAT is the last major town on the Dordogne and the last part of the river accessible by anything other than foot. Beyond Argentat, the Dordogne changes character entirely, due to the series of hydroelectric dams (barrages) that turn the river into a succession of grand reservoirs.Argentat's whitewashed houses and rather sombre grey slate rooftops make a distinct change from the warm yellow stone of the rest of the Dordogne. It's easy enough to while away an hour or so sitting at one of the riverbank cafés or exploring the cobbled alleyways which slope down to the river. But there's nothing else to make you stay, except for the comfortable, reasonably priced rooms at the Le Sablier du Temps, 13 rue Joseph-Vachal (tel 05.55.28.94.90, fax 05.55.28.94.99; €40–55; menus from €17). The Hôtel Fouillade, 11 place Gambetta (tel 05.55.28.10.17, fax 05.55.28.90.52; under €30; closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec), offers more modest accommodation, and an excellent restaurant (closed Mon; from €11.50).
| 