CARENNAC is without doubt one of the most beautiful villages along this part of the Dordogne river. Elevated just above the south bank of the river, 13km or so east of Martel, it's best known for its typical Quercy architecture, its Romanesque priory, where the French writer Fénelon spent the best years of his life, and for its greengages.Carennac's feature, as so often in these parts, is the Romanesque tympanum – in the Moissac style – above the west door of its church, the église St-Pierre. Christ sits in majesty with the Book of Judgement in his left hand, with the apostles and adoring angels below him. Next to the church, you can gain access to the old cloisters and chapterhouse (Jan–March and Nov–Dec Mon–Fri 10am–noon & 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm; April, May & Oct daily 10–noon & 2–6pm; June & Sept daily 10–noon & 2–6.30pm; July & Aug daily 10am–12.30pm & 2–7pm; €1.60), which contain an exceptionally expressive life-size Entombment of Christ. There are two comfortable and reasonably priced hotels in the village, both with good restaurants specializing in traditional regional cuisine: the Auberge du Vieux Quercy, to the south of the church (tel 05.65.10.96.59, [email protected]; €55–70; closed mid-Nov to March), whose restaurant has a good-value menu at €16 (closed for lunch on weekdays), and the more rustic Hostellerie Fénelon on the main street (tel 05.65.10.96.46, fax 05.65.10.94.86; €40–55; closed Jan to mid-March; restaurant from €17). There's also a campsite, L'Eau Vive, 1km east of Carennac (tel 05.65.10.97.39; closed mid-Oct to April). Another 10km further upstream, the sturdy towers and machicolated red-brown walls of the eleventh-century Château de Castelnau-Bretenoux (daily: April–June & Sept 9.30am–12.15pm & 2–6.15pm; July & Aug 9.30am–6.45pm; Oct–March 10am–12.15pm & 2–5.15pm; €5.50) dominate a sharp knoll above the Dordogne. Most of it has now been restored and refurnished. Below, on the banks of the River Cère, you come to the graceful little bastide of BRETENOUX, with two sides of its cobbled and arcaded square still intact.
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