The first place of any size east of Sarlat is SOUILLAC, at the confluence of the Borrèze and Dordogne rivers and on a major road junction. Virginia Woolf stayed here in 1937, and was pleased to meet "no tourists … England seems like a chocolate box bursting with trippers afterward." There are still few tourists, since Souillac's only real point of interest is the twelfth-century church of Ste-Marie, just off the main road. Roofed with massive domes like the cathedrals of Périgueux and Cahors, its spacious interior creates just the atmosphere for cool reflection on a summer's day. On the back of the west door are some of the most wonderful Romanesque sculptures, including a seething mass of beasts devouring each other. The greatest piece of craftsmanship, though, is a bas-relief of Isaiah, fluid and supple, thought to be by one of the artists who worked at Moissac. Behind the church, the Musée de l'Automate (Jan–March, Nov & Dec Wed–Sun 2.30–5.30pm; April, May, Sept & Oct daily 10am–noon & 3–6pm; July & Aug daily 10am–7pm; €5) contains a collection of mostly nineteenth-century mechanical dolls, which dance, sing and perform magical tricks, and appeal mainly to children.The tourist office (July & Aug daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–7pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 05.65.37.81.56) is on the main boulevard Louis-Jean Malvy, next to the handsome, old Grand Hôtel (tel 05.65.32.78.30, fax 05.65.32.66.34; €30–40; closed Nov–March), with comfortable rooms and an excellent restaurant (closed Wed; from €12.50). There's even cheaper accommodation at the Auberge du Puits, in the pretty place du Puits in the old quarter (tel 05.65.37.80.32, [email protected]; under €30; closed Sun eve, Mon & Dec–Jan), with good food from €13. There's also a large riverside campsite, Les Ondines (tel 05.65.37.86.44; closed Oct–April). You can rent bicycles and canoes from Quercyland (tel 05.65.32.72.61), next to the campsite, and bikes only from Carrefour du Cycle, 23 av de Gaulle (tel 05.65.37.07.52).
| 