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Meals
France > Basics > Eating and drinking > Meals

There's no difference between restaurants (or auberges or relais as they sometimes call themselves) and brasseries in terms of quality or price range. The distinction is that brasseries, which resemble cafés, serve quicker meals at most hours of the day, while restaurants tend to stick to the traditional meal times of noon to 2pm, and 7pm to 9pm or 9.30pm, sometimes later in larger towns and during the summer months. In touristy areas in high season, and for all the more upmarket places, it's wise to make reservations – easily done on the same day. In small towns it may be impossible to get anything other than a bar sandwich after 9.30pm or so; in major cities, town-centre brasseries will serve until 11pm or midnight and one or two may stay open all night.

When hunting for places to eat, avoid places that are half empty at peak time, use your nose and regard long menus with suspicion. Don't forget that hotel restaurants are open to non-residents, and are often very good value. In many small towns and villages, you'll find these are the only restaurants, but in country areas keep an eye out for fermes auberges, farm restaurants where the majority of ingredients are produced on the farm itself. These are often the best places to sample really traditional local cuisine at very reasonable prices (a four-course meal for around €15 is the norm); reservations are a must. Since restaurants change hands frequently and have their ups and downs, it's always worth asking locals for recommendations; this will usually elicit strong views and sound advice.

Prices, and what you get for them, are posted outside. Normally there's a choice between one or more menus fixes, where the number of courses has already been determined and the choice is limited, and choosing individually from the carte (menu). Menus fixes (often referred to simply as menus) are normally the cheapest option. At the bottom end of the price range, they revolve around standard dishes such as steak and chips (steak frites), chicken and chips (poulet frites) and the like. But further up the scale they can be much the best-value way of sampling regional specialities, sometimes running to five or more courses. If you're simply not that hungry, just go for the plat du jour.

Going à la carte offers greater choice and, in the better restaurants, unlimited access to the chef's specialities – though you'll pay for the privilege. A simple and perfectly legitimate tactic is to have just one course instead of the expected three or four. You can share dishes or go for several starters – a useful strategy for vegetarians. There's no minimum charge.

In the French sequence of courses, any salad (sometimes vegetables, too) comes separate from the main dish, and cheese precedes a dessert. You will be offered coffee, which is almost always extra, to finish off the meal.

In the vast majority of restaurants a service charge of fifteen percent is included in prices listed on the menu – check that it says service compris (s.c.). Service non compris (s.n.c.) or servis en sus means that the charge will be added to the bill. Wine (vin) or a drink (boisson) is occasionally included in the cost of a menu fixe. When ordering house wine, the cheapest option, ask for un quart (0.25 litre), un demi-litre (0.5 litre) or une carafe (1 litre). If you're worried about the cost ask for vin ordinaire or the vin de table. In the Guide the lowest price menu, or sometimes the range of menus, is given. Note that evening menus – and often those served at weekends – are in general slightly more expensive than the standard weekday lunchtime menu. Where average à la carte prices are given it assumes you'll have three courses and half a bottle of wine.

The French are extremely well disposed towards children in restaurants. Not only do they offer reduced-price children's menus but also create an atmosphere – even in otherwise fairly snooty establishments – that positively welcomes kids; some even provide games and toys. It's regarded as self-evident that large family groups should be able to eat out together.

One final note is that you should always call the waiter or waitress Monsieur or Madame (Mademoiselle if a young woman), never Garçon.


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