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France > Languedoc > Western > Albi > Practicalities

From the gare SNCF on place Stalingrad it's a ten-minute walk into town along avenues Maréchal-Joffre and de-Gaulle; you'll see the gare routière on your right in place Jean-Jaurès as you reach the limits of the old town. The tourist office is in one corner of the Palais de la Berbie (July & Aug daily 9am–7.30pm; June & Sept Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Oct–May Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–5pm; tel 05.63.49.48.80); ask for a copy of their English-language leaflet describing three walking Tours round Albi.

There are two attractive hotels near the station on avenue Maréchal-Joffre: La Régence, at no. 27 (tel 05.63.54.01.42, www.hotellaregence.com; €30–40), and the slightly more expensive Georges V, at no. 29 (tel 05.63.54.24.16, [email protected]; €30–40). On the opposite side of the town, on the north bank of the river, you'll find the luxurious Mercure les Bastides (tel 05.63.47.66.66, [email protected]; €70–85) at 41 rue Porta. In the heart of old Albi near the cathedral, both the Hotel St-Clair, 8 rue St-Clair (tel 05.63.54.25.66, [email protected]; €30–40), and Le Vieil Alby, 25 rue Toulouse-Lautrec (tel 05.63.54.15.69, [email protected]; €40–55), are agreeable places to stay. Otherwise, there's a hostel at 13 rue de la République (tel 05.63.54.53.65, [email protected]; HI membership obligatory) and a municipal campsite (tel 05.63.60.37.06; closed mid-Oct to March) in the Parc de Caussels, about 2km east on the D999 Millau road.

Albi's cuisine is predominantly terroir – local cooking notable only for lou tastou, the local version of tapas. The best terroir restaurant is Moulin de Mothe, on rue de Lamothe (tel 05.63.60.38.15; closed Wed & Sun eve except July & Aug; menus €22.11–25.92), on the north bank west from the pont vieux. Also serving terroir, La Tête de l'Art, 7 rue de la Piale (tel 05.63.38.44.75; closed Tues eve & all Wed; from €11.43), is set apart by unrestrained atmosphere and wacky decor, while L'Esprit du Vin, 11 quai Choiseul (tel 05.63.54.60.44; closed Sun eve, all Mon & Feb; from €25.15), has imaginative gastronomique cuisine. For something different La Casa Loca, rue Puech Bérenguier (tel 05.63.47.26.00; closed Sun), features genuine Spanish food and tapas (menus from €7.93). Tournesol, off place du Vigan (tel 05.63.38.44.60; closed Sun & Mon, lunch only except Fri), is Albi's vegetarian option (from €12.20).


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