Continuing north from Douch, the D180 climbs another 12km above deep ravines, offering spectacular views to the summit of L'Espinouse. The Col de l'Ourtigas is a good place to stretch your legs and take in the grandeur surrounding you. Here the landscape changes from Mediterranean cragginess to marshy moor-like meadow and big conifer plantations, and the road begins to descend west into the valley of the River Agout. It runs through tiny Salvergues, with plain workers' cottages and a striking fortress-church; Cambon, where the natural woods begin; postcard-pretty FRAISSE-SUR-AGOUT – home to the small Auberge de l'Espinouse (tel 04.67.97.56.14; €30–40; closed Nov–Feb); and thence to LA SALVETAT-SUR-AGOUT. Situated between the artificial lakes of La Raviège and Laouzas, this is another attractive mountain town built on a hill above the river, with car-wide streets and houses clad in huge slate tiles. It's usually half asleep except at holiday time, when it becomes a busy outdoor activities centre. With several campsites and the friendly, English-owned La Pergola hotel (tel 04.67.97.60.57, fax 04.67.97.56.76; under €30), it's a convenient stopover for the centre of the park. The municipal campsite (tel 04.67.97.62.45; closed Sept–April) is by the sports ground off the D907, and there's a tourist office in place des Archers at the top of the hill (July & Aug Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–noon & 2–5pm; Sept–June closed Sun; tel 04.67.97.64.44).
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