Pepper-pot turrets and steep slate roofs adorn the ancient grey houses of MEYMAC, 17km west of Ussel. The village is packed tightly around its Romanesque church, whose porch is flanked by striking pink capitals. Adjoining it are the remains of the original Benedictine abbey, whose foundation a thousand years ago brought the town into being. Part of the abbey now houses the innovative Centre National d'Art Contemporain (July & Aug daily 10am7pm; SeptJune TuesSun 26pm; €4), featuring changing exhibitions of young, local artists as well as big-name retrospectives.Grande-Rue, the main street, ends in steps that climb past the round bell tower, the town's landmark, to the lime-shaded square in front of the town hall. The tourist office (mid-June to mid-Sept MonSat 10am12.30pm & 26.30pm, Sun 10am12.30pm; mid-Sept to mid-June MonFri 10amnoon & 24.30pm; tel 05.55.95.18.43) is opposite, the other side of a pretty fountain, and has plenty of information on Hiking amongst other things. There's a pleasant hotel on the main road, the De Limousin, 76 av Limousine (tel 05.55.46.12.11, fax 05.55.46.12.12; under €55; closed one week at Christmas; restaurant €1125) and a municipal campsite (tel 05.55.95.22.80, fax 05.55.95.19.99; closed mid-Sept to mid-May) close at hand on the Sornac road. One of the most touted sights in the area is the remains of a Roman villa and second-century temple at CARS, about 20km northwest of Meymac. Although there's nothing very spectacular to see, the very presence of Roman influence in such a remote location on the very edge of the Massif Central is interesting. And, if you want to stay, the simple, old-fashioned country Hôtel des Touristes is just a few kilometres away near PÉROLS-SUR-VÉZÈRE (tel 05.55.95.51.71, fax 05.55.95.29.55; under €30; closed mid-Dec to Jan), serving up genuine home-cooking from €10. A few kilometres further on, just outside BUGEAT, there's also a well-run riverside campsite (tel 05.55.95.50.03, [email protected]; closed OctApril). Five kilometres northwest of Bugeat, the six houses of VIAM perch prettily on the shores of an artificial lake. Its innocence has been slightly marred by watersports, but it has an exquisite and proportionately minute, lopsided church, whose door is blocked by a small iron gate presumably a local device to keep wandering farm animals out. There's no accommodation in Viam except a municipal campsite (tel 05.55.95.52.05, fax 05.55.95.21.86; closed Oct to mid-June), but 15km southwest, just outside TREIGNAC, the Hôtel du Lac (tel 05.55.98.00.44, fax 05.55.13.33; €4055; closed Sun eve & Mon; also closed mid-Jan to mid-Feb & one week in Oct) offers bright, modern rooms overlooking the lake and a well-rated restaurant (formules from €10, menus from €19).
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