Three kilometres south of Villeneuve the tiny hilltop village of PUJOLS makes a popular excursion, partly to see the faded Romanesque frescoes in the church of Ste-Foy and partly for the views over the surrounding country. But the main reason locals come here is for the quality of its restaurants. Top of the list is the excellent but expensive La Toque Blanche (tel 05.53.49.00.30; closed Sun eve, Mon & lunchtime Tues; menus from €1969), just south of Pujols with views back to the village. The panorama is even better, however, from their less formal outlet, Lou Calel, in Pujols itself, overlooking the Lot valley; for around €30 including wine you can sample some beautifully cooked traditional but light menus (tel 05.53.70.46.14; closed Tues eve, Wed & lunchtime Thurs).Another side trip could be to the beautiful but touristy old fortress town of Penne D'AGENAIS, 8km upstream on a steep hill also on the south bank of the Lot, with remains of a thirteenth-century castle teetering on a cliff edge. The tourist office, in rue du 14-Juillet just inside the old town gate (JanMay, Oct & Nov MonSat 9am12.30pm & 26pm, Sun 26pm; rest of year MonSat 9am1pm & 27pm, Sun 27pm; tel 05.53.41.37.80), can supply comprehensive lists of B&Bs and gîtes in the area. There's a campsite across the river in St-Sylvestre (tel 05.53.41.22.23; closed Oct to mid-May) and a good municipal site (tel 05.53.36.25.25; open July & Aug) beside a leisure lake just south of Penne, down near the gare SNCF on the AgenParis line. Alternate spellings:: France, Penne d'Agenais, Penne d'Agenais, Penne d'Agenais
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