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Relais Gourmand Léon de Lyon : Click to enlarge picture
Leon de Lyon
L'Amphitryon 33 rue St-Jean, 5e tel 04.78.37.23.68; Mº Vieux-Lyon. Usually packed restaurant serving Lyonnais specialities; menus from €12. Service till midnight.

Café des Fédérations 8 rue du Major-Martin, 1er tel 04.78.28.26.00; Mº Hôtel-de-Ville. Typical bouchon serving the earthiest of Lyonnais specialities (marinated tripe, black pudding and fish quenelles) in an atmosphere to match: there's even sawdust on the floor. Menu at €18.50 lunchtimes, €23 dinner. Closed Sat, Sun & Aug.

Chabert et Fils 11 rue des Marronniers, 2e tel 04.78.37.01.94; Mº Bellecour. Bouchon offering the ubiquitous quenelle and andouillette (offal sausage) specialties, along with other first-rate dishes. Good quality for the price. Menus from €16–27.

Chez Léon Halles de la Part-Dieu, 102 cours Lafayette, 3e tel 04.78.62.30.28; Mº Part-Dieu. Bar and restaurant in the market halls, whose specialities include seafood and snails. Around €25 for a good-sized meal. Closed May–Aug.

Léon de Lyon 1 rue Pléney, 1er tel 04.72.10.11.12; Mº Hôtel-de-Ville. Sophisticated and delicious eating, with original culinary creations as well as traditional Lyonnais recipes in this upmarket brasserie. Menus from €96, but there's a lunch menu for €55. Closed three weeks in Aug.

La Mère Brazier 12 rue Royale, 1er tel 04.78.28.15.49; Mº Croix-Paquet. A beautiful setting complements the excellent food, like Bresse chicken, artichoke hearts on foie gras and truffle crêpes – but it's very expensive. From €46, but you can easily spend twice as much. Closed Sun, Sat lunch & Aug.

La Meunière 11 rue Neuve, 1er tel 04.78.28.62.91; Mº Hôtel-de-Ville. Booking is essential in this excellent bouchon, but it's worth it for the €25 menu of course after course of Lyonnais specialities. Other menus start at €20. Closed Sun, Mon & mid-July–mid-Aug.

Paul Bocuse 40 rue de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, tel 04.72.42.90.90. Lyon's most famous restaurant, named after its celebrity chef-owner, is 9km north of the city, on the west bank of the Saône. Traditional French gastronomy is the bill of fare, with stunning crême brûlée and baba au rhum. €85 upwards.

Le Petit Glouton 56 rue St-Jean, 5e tel 04.78.37.30.10; Mº Vieux-Lyon. A small but airy and unpretentious bistro in the heart of Vieux-Lyon. You can dine inside or on the small street-side terrace for under €13.

La Tour Rose 22 rue Boeuf, 5e tel 04.78.92.69.11; Mº Vieux-Lyon. Gastronomic palace with concoctions like asparagus with an oyster mousse or salad of lobster and spinach with a creamed truffle sauce. From €32. Closed Sun. Worth peeking at is the actual Tour Rose (the tower of a small Renaissance house), in the courtyard next door at nearby no.16.


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