The Marseillais eat just as well, if not better, than the ageing aristos and skin-stretched celebrities of the Riviera. Fish and seafood are the main ingredients, and the superstar of dishes is the city's own expensive invention, bouillabaisse, a saffron- and garlic-flavoured soup with bits of fish, croutons and rouille thrown in; theories conflict as to which fish should be included and where and how they must be caught, but one essential is the rascasse or scorpion fish. The other city speciality is the less exotic pieds et paquets, mutton or lamb belly and trotters.Good restaurant hunting grounds to head for include cours Julien or place Jean-Jaurès (international options), the pedestrian precinct behind the Vieux Port's southern quay (a bit more upmarket and fishy), rue Pavillon (cheap lunches), the plage du Prado (glitzy and pricey) or Le Panier (snacks and old-time bistros). Gourmet palaces lurk close to the corniche, while stalls on cours Belsunce sell chips and sandwiches with meaty fillings for under €4. Note that on Sunday pickings are slim, and many Marseille restaurants also take long summer breaks.
Pages in section ‘Eating & Drinking’: Cafés and bars, Restaurants.
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