Restaurants
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Restaurant

Les Arcenaulx 25 cours d'Éstienne-d'Orves, 1er tel 04.91.54.77.06. Superb food with menus from €24.50 in an intellectual haunt which is also a bookshop. Mixed gay and straight crowd. Closed Sun.

Auberge "In" 25 rue du Chevalier-Roze, 2e tel 04.91.90.51.59. Health-food shop on the edge of Le Panier, with a vegetarian menu fixe served lunchtimes and early evenings (menu €9.45). Closed Sun.

Caffe Milano 43 rue Sainte, 1er tel 04.91.33.14.33. Tastefully refurbished old café serving novel plats du jour such as duck and mango salad; from €11. Closed Sat lunch & Sun.

Chez Angèle 50 rue Caisserie, 2e tel 04.91.90.63.35. Packed Le Panier local, with an excellent menu fixe. Closed Sat evening, Sun & Aug.

Chez Étienne 43 rue Lorette, 2e. Old-fashioned Le Panier bistro; hectic, cramped and crowded. Full meal from €15.25 as well as cheaper pizzas. No bookings. Closed Sun & Mon.

Chez Michel 6 rue des Catalans, 7e tel 04.91.52.30.63. There's no debate about the bouillabaisse ingredients here. A basket of five fishes, including the elusive and most expensive one, the rascasse, is presented to the customer before the soup is made. Quite simply the place to eat this dish. Expect to pay €45 for the bouillabaisse alone.

Dar Djerba 15 cours Julien, 6e tel 04.91.48.55.36. Excellent Tunisian restaurant with beautiful tiling. Around €22.50. Closed Sun.

La Kalena 2 rue de la République, 1er. North African restaurant close to the Vieux Port with meals from €10. Closed Sun & Mon lunch.

Maurice Brun 18 quai Rive-Neuve, 7e tel 04.91.33.35.38. A Marseille institution serving authentic Provençal food; lunch menu €35, evening €49. Closed Mon & Sat lunch, Sun.

Le Miramar 12 quai du Port, 2e tel 04.91.91.10.40. This local favourite is not cheap, but with its portside location and gregarious owner it's well worth the price (à la carte from €53). Best bet is the bouillabaisse. Closed Sun & Mon.

La Part des Anges 33 rue Sainte, 1er tel 04.91.33.55.70. Superb bar à vins with knowledgeable staff. Stuffed artichokes provençal and other delicacies accompany a quality selection of local wines; à la carte from €17.

Le Souk 98 quai du Port, 2e tel 04.91.91.29.29. Top-notch North African restaurant with excellent quality food and smart service. Count on spending €30. Closed Mon.