Eleven kilometres due south of Murol, BESSE is one of the prettiest and oldest villages in the region. Its fascinating winding streets of noble lava-built houses – some as old as the fifteenth century – sit atop the valley of the Couze de Pavin, with one of the original fortified town gates still in place at the upper end of the village.Its wealth was due to its role as the principal market for the farms on the eastern slopes of the Monts-Dore, and its co-operative is still one of the main producers of St-Nectaire cheese. The annual festivals of the Montée and Dévalade, marking the ascent of the herds to the high pastures in July and their descent in autumn, are still celebrated by the procession of the Black Virgin of Vassivière from the church of St-André in Besse to the chapel of LA VASSIVIÈRE, west of Lac Pavin, and back again in autumn (July 2 & the first Sun after Sept 21). Lac Pavin lies 5km west of the village, on the way to the purpose-built ski resort of SUPER-BESSE (both are connected to Besse by an hourly navette). It's a perfect volcanic lake, filling the now wooded crater. The GR30 goes through, passing by the Puy de Montchal, whose summit (1407m) gives you a fine view over several other lakes and the rolling plateau south towards ÉGLISENEUVE-D'ENTRAIGUES, 13km by road, where the Parc des Volcans' Maison du Fromage gives a detailed account of the making of the different cheeses of Auvergne (daily: mid-May to June & Sept 2–6pm; July & Aug 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm; €3.05). Besse's tourist office is next to the church on place du Dr Pipet (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6/6.30pm, Sun 10am–12.30 & 2.30–6.30pm; tel 04.73.79.52.84, www.superbesse.com), and will provide information and advice about walking, mountain biking and skiing. Good, simple fare can be had next door at the Le Sancy, which has a plat du jour for €6.50. For a place to stay, there's none better than the attractive old Hostellerie du Beffroi, 24 rue Abbé-Blot (tel 04.73.79.50.08, fax 04.73.79.57.87; €40–55), whose good restaurant serves up a range of local specialities from €20.
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