Florac
France > Massif Central > Cevennes > Parc National > Florac

Florac © Loïc Bazalgette

Situated 39km south of Mende, FLORAC lies in the bottom of the trench-like valley of the Tarnon just short of its junction with the Tarn. Behind it rises the steep wall that marks the edge of the Causse Méjean. When you get here, you will have already passed the frontier between the northern and Mediterranean landscapes; the dividing line seems to be the Col de Montmirat at the western end of Mont Lozère. Once you begin the descent, the scrub and steep gullies and the tiny abandoned hamlets, with their eyeless houses oriented towards the sun, speak clearly of the south.

The village, with some 2000 inhabitants, is strung out along the left bank of the Tarnon and the main street, avenue Jean-Monestier. There's little to see, though the close lanes of the village up towards the valley side have their charms, especially the plane-shaded place du Souvenir. A red-schist castle stands above the village, housing the Centre d'Information du Parc National des Cévennes (June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm; mid-Sept to May Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–6pm, Sat & Sun same hours Easter–Oct; tel 04.66.49.53.01, [email protected]). The helpful tourist office is on avenue Jean-Monestier (June & Sept Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–5pm; July & Aug daily 9am–7.30pm; Oct–May Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–5.30pm; tel 04.66.45.01.14, www.florac-tourisme.com). Mountain bike rental is available from Cévennes Evasion, in place Boyer (tel 04.66.45.18.31).

The accommodation on offer is not fantastic. The best and cheapest place is Au 21 Esplanade, on the tree-lined street of the same name (tel 04.66.45.11.19, fax 04.66.45.06.65; under €30; restaurant from €13.80). Alternatively try the Grand Hôtel du Parc on avenue Jean-Monestier (tel 04.66.45.03.05, www.grandhotelduparc.fr; €40–55; closed Dec to March; restaurant €15–27.50), with pleasant gardens and a pool, or the Archibald Hôtel, on avenue Maurice Tour, which has a lovely terrace over the stream, though the rooms are a bit dowdy (tel 04.66.45.00.01, fax 04.66.45.14.04; €30–40; closed Jan & Feb; restaurant from €12–20). A better bet is the Lozérette, in COCURÈS, 5km back towards Mont Lozère, on the Pont-de-Montvert road (tel 04.66.45.06.04, [email protected]; €40–55; closed Nov–April; restaurant €19.50–37).

Three gîtes d'etape in and around Florac are Le Presbytère, 18 rue du Pêcher (tel 04.66.45.24.54, www.lozere.net/lagrave); the gîte détape communal, 1 rue du Four (Mme. Rives: tel 04.66.45.14.93, [email protected]; closed Dec); and M. Serrano in Le Pont-du-Tarn, 1km north (tel 04.66.45.20.89). The best-value campsites are the municipal one at Le Pont-du-Tarn out on the road towards Ispagnac (tel 04.66.45.18.26, www.lozere.net/pontdutarn.htm; closed mid-Oct to March), and two more on the other side of town on the Corniche de Cévennes road, beside the River Tarnon.

Florac's Esplanade is a good place to look for somewhere to eat, or try Le Chapeau Rouge, on the corner of rue Théophile Roussel and avenue Jean-Monestier, offering cévenoles specialities (tel 04.66.45.23.40; menus from €10). For something a bit more upmarket, there's La Source du Pêcher at 1 rue de Rémuret, in the old town beside the stream (tel 04.66.45.03.01; menus from €13).