Seventeen kilometres west of St-Urcize and 24km north of Espalion, LAGUIOLE passes for a substantial town in these parts. Derived from the Occitan word for "little church", it's a name which now stands for knives and cheese. The knives, which draw hordes of French to the town's many shops, are characterized by a long, pointed blade and bone handle that fits the palm; the genuine article should bear the effigy of a bee stamped on the clasp that holds the blade open. It's an industry that started in the nineteenth century, then moved to industrial Thiers, outside Clermont-Ferrand, before returning to Laguiole in 1987, when the Société Laguiole (the only outlet for the genuine article) opened a factory designed by Philippe Starck on the St-Urcize road, with a giant knife projecting from the roof of the windowless all-aluminium building. They have a shop on the main through-road, on the corner of the central marketplace opposite the tourist office kiosk (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–7pm, Sun 10.30am–noon & 2–7pm; tel 05.65.44.35.94, fax 05.65.44.35.76). Laguiole's cheese-making tradition dates back to the twelfth century; unpasteurized cow's milk is formed into massive cylindrical cheeses, and aged up to eighteen months. The hard, tangy result is a world apart from neighbouring Roquefort; to sample or buy the factory outlet on the north edge of town is the best bargain.There's nothing of great significance to see in the village, though the Musée du Haut-Rouergue (irregular hours; free), with its collection of objects illustrative of the pastoral life, might be of interest. Nonetheless, it is a relatively metropolitan base for exploring round about, with several hotels on the main street. Try the Aubrac opposite the marketplace (tel 05.65.44.32.13, [email protected]; €30–40; restaurant from €9.45–23.63), the nearby Régis (tel 05.65.44.30.05, fax 05.65.48.46.44; €30–40; restaurant from €15) or the Grand Hôtel Auguy (tel 05.65.44.31.11, fax 05.65.51.50.81; €40–55), 2 allée de l'Amicale, with a good restaurant from €20. Alternatively, there's a sort of chambre d'hôte at Le Combaïre, in a quiet rural setting 3km west on the D42 (tel 05.65.44.33.26, fax 05.65.44.37.38; half-board €30–40); gîtes d'étape at Le Vayssaire (tel 05.65.48.44.69) and Soulages-Bonneval (tel 05.65.44.42.18, fax 05.65.44.42.80; meals available), 5km away on the D54; and a municipal campsite (tel 05.65.44.39.72; closed mid-Sept to mid-May) on the St-Urcize road. Communications, however, are not good, and if you don't have a car your only chance of getting in or out is the daily bus to Rodez.
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