The size and tranquillity of the Abbaye de Bec-Hellouin, upstream from Pont-Audemer just before Brionne, give a monastic feel to the whole Risle valley. Bells echo across the water and white-robed monks go soberly about their business. From the eleventh century onwards, the abbey was one of the most important centres of intellectual learning in the Christian world; the philosopher Anselm was abbot here before becoming Archbishop of Canterbury in 1093. Due to the Revolution, most of the monastery buildings are recent – the monks only returned in 1948 – but there are some survivors and appealing clusters of stone ruins, including the fifteenth-century bell tower of St-Nicholas and the cloister. Recent archbishops of Canterbury have maintained tradition by coming here on retreat. Visitors are welcome to wander through the grounds for no charge, though you can also join regular guided tours (June–Sept Mon & Wed–Fri 10.30am, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm, Sat 10.30am, 3pm & 4pm, Sun & hols noon, 3pm & 4pm; Oct–May Mon & Wed–Sat 10.30am, 3pm & 4pm, Sun & hols noon, 3pm & 4pm; 4; www.abbayedubec.com).The rather twee adjacent town of Bec-Hellouin holds a distinctly unascetic restaurant, the wonderful Auberge de l'Abbaye (tel 02.32.44.86.02; 70–85; closed Mon eve, all day Tues in winter & all Jan), which also has half a dozen expensive rooms. Restaurant de la Tour on place Guillaume-le-Conquérant nearby (tel 02.32.44.86.15; closed Dec, plus Tues evening & Wed in low season) is a more affordable place to eat, with some outdoor tables.
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