VILLEDIEU-LES-POÊLES – literally "City of God the Frying Pans" – is a lively though touristy place, 28km west of Vire. Copper souvenirs and kitchen utensils gleam from its rows of shops, and the tourist office has lists of dozens of local ateliers for more direct purchases, plus details of the copperwork museum.All of this can seem a bit obsessive, though there is more authentic interest at the Fonderie de Cloches at 13 rue du Pont-Chignon, one of the twelve remaining bell foundries in Europe. Work here is only part-time due to limited demand, but it's open to visits all year round, and you may find the forge lit (July & Aug daily 9am–6pm; June & Sept Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–5.30pm, Sun 9.30am–noon & 2–5.30pm; Oct–May Tues–Sat 9am–noon & 2–5.30pm; €3.80). Expert craftsmen will show you the moulds, composed of an unpleasant-looking combination of clay, goat's hair and horse manure. The local tourist office is on place des Costils (July & Aug daily 9am–6pm; Sept-June Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 02.33.61.05.69, [email protected]). If you're charmed into staying, the welcoming logis Hôtel St-Pierre et St-Michel, 12 place de la République (tel 02.33.61.00.11, www.st-pierre-hotel.com; €40–55; closed Jan, plus Fri in low season), houses the stylish Le Sourdin restaurant, where the €19 menu features fine local ham, and the €31 menu is seriously gastronomic. There's also a three-star campsite by the river, Jean-Louis Bougord (tel 02.33.61.02.44; closed Oct–Easter). Alternate spellings:: France, Villedieu-les-Poêles, Villedieu-les-Poêles, Villedieu-les-Poêles
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