Twenty-two kilometres east of Cambrai along an old Roman road, the small town of LE CATEAU-CAMBRÉSIS is the birthplace of Henri Matisse (18691954), and as a gift to his home town, the artist bequeathed it a collection of his works. Some of them are displayed in the Musée Matisse (daily except Tues: JuneSept 10am6pm; OctMay 10amnoon & 26pm; €4.50, free 1st Sun of month), housed in Palais Fénelon, in the centre of town. The museum reopened in November 2002 after being redesigned to double its floor-space. Although no major works are displayed, it's the third-largest collection of his work in France, and includes several studies for the chapel in Vence, plus a whole series of his characteristically simple pen-and-ink sketches. Also worth looking at is the work of local Cubist Auguste Herbin, particularly his psychedelic upright piano. For somewhere to stay and eat there's the simple but comfortable Hostellerie du Marché on rue Landrecies (tel 03.27.84.09.32, [email protected]; €3040; menus €12 & €20).
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