The cafés around the Grand' Place and place Rihour are always buzzing with life. Rue de Paris has lots of tacky, loud, crushed bars raging at all hours, while up near the cathedral rue Basse and place Louise-de-Bettignies have some trendier spots. West of place de la Republique, bars are thick on the ground in rues Solférino and Masséna, and attract a young crowd. For gay bars, of which there are several, try either Mum's Bar at 4 rue Doudin or Yo at 11 place Louchard, both west of the cathedral. Art and music events are always worth checking up on – there's a particularly lively jazz scene. Pick up a copy of the free weekly Listings magazine, Sortir, from the tourist office, or look in the local paper, La Voix du Nord.Bateau Ivre 41 rue Lepelletier. Loud music ranging from house to soul in a pleasant street in the old quarter. Mainly young crowd. Sun–Fri 3pm–3am, Sat 11am–3am. Café aux Arts 1 place du Concert. Good old-fashioned café with wicker chairs on its terrace, in an unbeatable vantage point over the market. Club le 30 30 rue de Paris. One of Lille's many jazz venues, this one probably attracts the best artists. Open every evening except Mon. L'Imaginaire place Louise-de-Bettignies, next door to the Hôtel Treille. Arty young bar with paintings adorning the walls. Mon–Sat 10pm–2am. Méert 25–27 rue Esquermoise. Lille's most famous salon de thé specializes in gaufres, squidgey, sweet waffles said to have been General de Gaulle's favourite teatime treat; excellent cakes and teas, too. Closed Mon morning. La Part des Anges 50 rue de la Monnaie. Trendy wine bar with an enviable cellar, serving simple meals and snacks to accompany the wine. Le Smiley 2 rue Royale. Funky cocktail bar in basement open every evening except Sunday; reliable cybercafé on ground floor. Les Trois Brasseurs 22 place de la Gare. Dark, smoke-stained dining stalls surround copper cauldrons in this genuine brasserie that brews its own beer. Food is also served but it's the beer that's the main attraction.
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