A Flemish flavour and a taste for mussels (moules) characterize the city's cuisine, and the main area for cafés, brasseries and restaurants is around place Rihour and along rue de Béthune. But Lille is also gaining a reputation for gastronomic excellence, and for something more exotic Rue Royale has a selection of fairly pricey but generally very good options, ranging from Cambodian to Japanese. The best general area for cheap restaurants is the student quarter along the rues Solférino and Masséna while Vieux Lille in general is definitely fashionable, in particular the rue de Gand where cuisines as varied as Brazilian, Senegalese, Italian and Moroccan vie for your attention alongside temples to cordon bleu and even a traditional Flemish tavern.A Côté aux Arts 5 place du Concert. Friendly little brasserie serving dishes such as andouillette, stuffed pig's trotters and magret of duck with fresh figs (€13-20 for main course). Alcide 5 rue Débris St-Etienne. A Lillois institution of a brasserie, tucked down a narrow alleyway near the Grand' Place. Reliable, hearty fare (flamiche, fish, crêpes à la cassonade) served in a wood-panelled dining room. Menus from €20. Open daily. Aux Moules 34 rue de Béthune tel 03.20.12.90.92. The best place to eat mussels; it's been serving them since 1930 in its Art Deco-style interior. Nothing costs much over €10, including the other brasserie fare, and it's all excellent value. Daily noon–midnight. Bar de la Cloche 13 place du Théâtre. Excellent small brasserie, serving twenty different wines by the glass, in a relaxed, casual atmosphere; popular with the older set. Plats €10–13, cheeses and cold meats €5–9. Brasserie de la Paix 25 pl Rihour. Sumptuous brasserie, unrelated to its namesake hotel, specializing in mussels and seafood. Lunch menus at €15, dinner from €23. Closed Sun. La Cave aux Fioles 39 rue de Gand. The jazz-related decor is backed by the music and mellow ambience. Food ranges from classics and Flemish specials to more adventurous fare. Menus at €29 or plats for €13. Le Compostelle 4 rue St-Etienne. In a much renovated Renaissance palace this trendy restaurant, with its designer furniture and conspicuous olive-tree has some unusual dishes such as turbot in beer on its reasonably priced menus (€22–39). Coq Hardi 44 place Général-de-Gaulle. In a prime position on the main square, you can people-watch whilst eating one of the salads at €6–7 or specialities of the region from the €14 menu. Also open for drinks outside of meal times. Flandre Liban 125 rue des Postes. Excellent Lebanese restaurant in a mainly North African and Middle Eastern quarter. Go for the mezze menu at €15. La Galetière 4 place Louise-de-Bettignies tel 03.20.54.89.92. Good-value crêperie in the old town. If it's full or closed, try the equally good Beaurepaire II round the corner on place Lion-d'Or. Closed Sun & Mon. L'Huîtrière 3 rue des Chats-Bossus tel 03.20.55.43.41. A wonderful shop with an expensive, chandelier-hung restaurant at the back – acclaimed as Lille's best – specializing in fish and the eponymous Oysters at €25–35 a dish; there's a staggering €100 menu, and a €40 one for lunch. Closed Sun eve, hols & late July to late Aug. La Pâte Brisée 63–65 rue de la Monnaie. Delicious quiches and tarts in a bright, modern decor. Formules at €8, 11, 13 & 17. Paul place du Théâtre, cnr rue Faidherbe tel 03.20.78.20.78. Paul is an institution in Lille and here the boulangerie, pâtisserie and salon de thé are all under one roof. There are various good breakfast menus served throughout the day, but the main reason to come here is to taste the delights of the patisserie in the salon de thé. Daily 7am–7.30pm. Piccolo Mondo 2 rue des Molfonds, off rue de Béthune. Erratic service but Lille's best pizza place. Also serves pasta and offers several vegetarian alternatives. T'Rijsel 25 rue de Gand. Traditional Flemish estaminet, open evening only, serving the whole gamut of regional dishes and over 40 beers. Plats from €9. Closed Sun & Mon.
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