Central Troyes is packed with places to eat, mostly economical but unexciting. Along rue Champeaux the best of several crêperies is popular La Tourelle, spectacularly located in the half-timbered building at no. 9, with its own fairytale tower and views of the church of St-Jean. A great place to try the regional speciality of andouillette, along with delicious homestyle cooking, is the classic Bistroquet on place Langevin (tel 03.25.80.58.23; closed Sun eve; menus from €15); also try the Hôtel du Théâtre's brasserie (closed Sun eve; menus from €12). Troyes' top restaurant is Le Valentino, 11 cour de la Rencontre (tel 03.25.73.14.14; closed Sat lunch, Mon & 3 weeks in Aug & Sept; menus €17–43), whose inventive chef combines different flavours from all over the world. Le Café du Musée, near the cathedral at 59 rue de la Cité, has a decent upstairs restaurant (closed Sun & Mon eve) and a cool contemporary bar downstairs (Mon–Sat until 3am), with a wide range of beers. Le Tricasse is a perennially popular bar, with tables and the occasional live band, at 2 rue Charbonnet, on the corner with narrow rue Paillot-de-Montabert, down which you'll find a few more bars, including the tiny and consistently packed-out Bar des Bougnets des Pouilles. Self-caterers should head for the Marché les Halles, a daily covered market on the corner of rue Général-de-Gaulle and rue de la République, close to the Hôtel de Ville. Vegetarians and the health-conscious will think they're in heaven at Coopérative Hermès, 39 rue Général-Saussier, an excellent healthfood store.
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