| Often considered the most romantic part of Paris, the Île St-Louis is prime strolling territory. Unlike its larger neighbour, the Île de la Cité, it has no monuments or sights as such, save for a small museum at 6 quai d'Orléans devoted to the Romantic Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz (Thurs 2–6pm or by appointment on 01.43.54.35.61; free). Instead, you'll find tall houses on single-lane streets, tree-lined quais, a school, a church, assorted restaurants and cafés, and interesting shops. The island feels somewhat removed from the rest of Paris, with its own distinct charm, an oasis little touched by the city's turbulent years of revolution and upheaval. Inhabitants of the island even have their own name – "Louisiens". It's also one of the city's most covetable addresses – the Pretender to the French throne and Baron Guy de Rothschild have their residences here. For centuries the Île St-Louis was nothing but swampy pastureland, a haunt of lovers, duellists and miscreants on the run, until in the seventeenth century the real-estate developer, Christophe Marie, had the bright idea of filling it with elegant mansions, so that by 1660 the island was quite transformed. In the 1840s the Île gained popularity as a Bohemian hangout, much like the Île de Louviers a decade earlier. The Haschischins club met every month on the ground floor of the Hôtel Lauzun, 17 quai d'Anjou. As the name suggests, hashish was handed round – apparently in the form of a green jelly – at these gatherings, attended by Manet, Balzac, Nerval and Baudelaire, among others. Baudelaire in fact lived in the building for a while in a small apartment on the second floor, where he wrote much of Les Fleurs du Mal and ran up large debts furnishing his rooms with antiques. The hôtel, built in 1657, has an intact interior, complete with splendid trompe l'oeil decorations, and is often used for government receptions (pre-arranged group visits are sometimes possible; call 01.42.76.57.99). A popular approach to the island is via Pont Louis-Phillipe just east of the Hôtel de Ville. It's a good spot to start a wander down rue St-Louis-en-l'Île, where you could follow in the footsteps of most visitors and stop at M. Berthillon (no.31), for one of their exquisite sorbets or ice creams. If you're looking for absolute seclusion, head for the southern quais, or climb over the low gate on the right of the garden across boulevard Henri-IV to reach the best sunbathing spot in Paris. The island is best avoided on weekend afternoons, when the narrow streets get uncomfortably crowded. It's particularly atmospheric in the evening, and dinner here, followed by an arm-in-arm wander along the quais, is a must in any lovers' itinerary.
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