Montmartre and northern Paris
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Montmartre

Montmartre

Cafés and Bars

Le Bar du Relais 12 rue Ravignan, 18^e. A quaint building in a beautiful spot just under the Butte, with tables out on the little square where Picasso's Beateau-Lavoir studio used to be, and good music inside. M° Abbesses. Daily 5pm–2am.

L'Été en Pente Douce 23 rue Muller, 18^e (cnr rue Paul-Albert) tel 01.42.64.02.67. The food's reasonable enough here – traditional French with plats around €13 – but the main reason for coming is to soak up the pure Montmartre atmosphere. Chairs and tables are set out alongside the steps leading up to Sacré-Cœur from the eastern side, just off the beaten track. M° Château-Rouge. Daily noon–midnight.

La Fourmi Café 74 rue des Martyrs, 18^e. Trendy, high-ceilinged café-bar full of conscientiously beautiful young Parisians drinking coffee by day and cocktails at night. M° Pigalle/Abbesses. Mon–Thurs 8am–2am, Fri & Sat 8am–4am, Sun 10am–2am.

Aux Négociants 27 rue Lambert (cnr rue Custine), 18^e tel 01.46.06.15.11. An intimate and friendly bistrot à vins with a selection of well-cooked plats, homemade charcuterie and excellent wines by the glass. It's wise to book if you plan to eat – count on around €25 for a full meal. The clientele is resolutely local, with a smattering of arty-intellectual types. M° Château-Rouge. Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 8–10pm; closed Aug.

Au Petit Café de Montmartre 7 rue Joseph de Maistre, 18^e. A small, traditional bar where the prices and atmosphere are unaffected by tourism, though occasional jazz duos pull in the punters. M° Château-Rouge. Tues–Thurs & Sun 3pm–11pm; Fri & Sat 11am–midnight; closed two weeks in Aug.

Le Sancerre 35 rue des Abbesses, 18^e. A fashionable hangout for the young and trendy of all nationalities under the southern slope of Montmartre, with a row of outside tables perfect for watching the world go by. The food can be disappointing though. M° Abbesses. Daily 7am–2am.

Restaurants

L'Assiette 78 rue Labat, 18^e tel 01.42.59.06.63. A bit out of the way, but a very friendly place, serving delicious southwestern food as well as surprising Ukrainian specialties like the beetroot sorbet starter. Good-value €15 menu. M° Château-Rouge. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri noon–2.30pm & 8–10.30pm, Wed noon–2.30pm, Sat 8–10.30pm.

La Casserole 17 rue Boinod, 18^e tel 01.42.54.50.97. Good and copious helpings, a wide variety of game in season, and a jolly atmosphere helped along by the curious knick-knacks that festoon the walls. À la carte will set you back around €30, but there's a lunchtime menu at €13 during the week. M° Simplon/Marcadet-Poissonniers. Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm; closed mid-July to mid-Aug.

Au Grain de Folie 24 rue La Vieuville, 18^e tel 01.42.58.15.57. Tiny, simple and colourfully dilapidated vegetarian place with a short, wholesome and inexpensive menu. M° Abbesses. Mon–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7–11.30pm, Sun 12.30–11.30pm.

L'Homme Tranquille 81 rue des Martyrs, 18^e tel 01.42.54.56.28. Simple and pleasant bistrot ambience, with posters and nicotine-coloured paint. Imaginative French dishes on the €21 menu include chicken in honey, coriander and lemon. M° Abbesses. Mon–Sat 7.30–11.30pm; closed Aug.

Le Moulin à Vins 6 rue Burq, 18^e tel 01.42.52.81.27. Cheery, intimate wine bar and bistrot with a really interesting selection of wines to accompany the excellent cheese and charcuterie. Plats such as coq au vin change every day and cost around €22. M° Abbesses. Tues–Sat 7pm–midnight; bar till 2am; closed three weeks in Aug.

A la Pomponnette 42 rue Lepic, 18^e tel 01.46.06.08.36. A genuine old Montmartre bistrot, with posters, drawings, zinc-top bar, etc. The food is excellent, with a menu at €28.50; otherwise it will cost you €35–50 à la carte. M° Blanche/Abbesses. Tues–Thurs noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm, Fri & Sat noon–2.30pm & 7pm–midnight.

Le Relais Gascon 6 rue des Abbesses, 18^e tel 01.42.58.58.22. Serving hearty, filling meals all day, this two-storey restaurant (upstairs is cosier but smoky) provides a welcome blast of straightforward Gascon heartiness in this alternately trendy, run-down and touristy part of town. The enormous hot salads cost €9, and there are equally tasty plats for around €10–12. M° Abbesses. Daily 10am–2am.

Le Rendez-vous des Chauffeurs 11 rue des Portes-Blanches, 18^e tel 01.42.64.04.17. The €12 menu, including wine, offers a large range of excellent quality French fare. Of course, that means this traditional little restaurant is always packed – you'll usually have to share a table. Arrive early or reserve. M° Marcadet-Poissonniers. Daily except Wed noon–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm.

Le Restaurant 32 rue Véron, 18^e tel 01.42.23.06.22. Fashionable but welcoming corner restaurant with some contemporary twists to classic French ingredients. M° Abbesses. Mon–Fri 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30pm–midnight, Sat 7.30–11.30pm.

Au Virage Lepic 61 rue Lepic, 18^e tel 01.42.52.46.79. Simple, good-quality meaty fare served in a noisy, friendly, old-fashioned bistrot. Small, smoky and very enjoyable. Two-course menu at €16. M° Blanche/Abbesses. Daily except Tues 7pm–2am.

Pigalle and south of Pigalle

Cafés and Bars

Le Dépanneur 27 rue Fontaine, 9^e tel 01.40.16.40.20. Relaxed all-night bar just off place Pigalle. One to know about for winding down after clubbing. M° Pigalle. Daily 11am–7am.

Restaurants

L'Alsaco 10 rue Condorcet (at the extreme eastern end), 9^e tel 01.45.26.44.31. A real Alsatian winstub serving the traditional dishes and wines of Alsace. The two menus (at €19 & €30) come with carefully chosen beers and lots of cheese. M° Poissonnière. Mon & Sat 7pm–midnight, Tues–Fri noon–2.15pm & 7pm–midnight; closed mid-July through Aug.

Aux Deux-Théâtres 18 rue Blanche, cnr rue Pigalle, 9^e tel 01.45.26.41.43. Classic luvvie hangout serving particularly good food in a long, plush dining room decorated with actors' photos. Single all-in menu at €29. M° Trinité. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 7pm–midnight.

Haynes 3 rue Clauzel (cnr rue des Martyrs), 9^e tel 01.48.78.40.63. There's a long tradition of black Americans in Paris, ever since jazz and Josephine Baker and ever since black GIs found themselves more welcome here than at home. This restaurant has been going since the 1940s, serving generous quantities of rich and heavy soul food. Despite the grotto-like decor, the atmosphere is warm, and there's blues or jazz most nights from around 8pm. It's certainly something different in Paris. Àla carte only, at around €35, with wine. M° St-Georges. Tues–Sat 7.30pm–12.30am.

Le Relais Savoyard 13 rue Rodier, cnr rue Agent-Bailly, 9^e tel 01.45.26.17.18. Generous helpings of hearty Savoyard cuisine in a little dining room at the back of a local bar. Two courses for €16, three for €23. M° Notre-Dame-de-Lorette/Anvers/Cadet. Mon 7.30–10pm, Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7–10pm; closed two weeks in Aug.

La Table d'Anvers 2 pl d'Anvers, 9^e tel 01.48.78.35.21. This is one of the city's best restaurants, despite the ugly business-beige decor. The menu at €39 gives a good taste of the chef's skills, but the full experience on the menu gastronomique will set you back €85. M° Anvers. Noon–2pm & 7–11pm; closed Mon & Sat lunchtime & Sun.

Velly 52 rue Lamartine, 9^e tel 01.48.78.60.05. Excellent modern French cooking in an intimate bistrot setting. You can choose from any of the dishes on the blackboard, which change daily. The sole menu costs €21 at lunchtime and €28 in the evening, and there are good wines for less than €20. M° Notre-Dame-de-Lorette. Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10.45pm, Sat 7.30–11pm; closed three weeks in Aug.

The stations and faubourgs

Cafés and Bars

L'Atmosphère 49 rue Lucien-Sampaix, 10^e. Lively café-bar with decent evening plats, on a pleasant corner beside the canal St-Martin. Tables on the towpath on sunny days, and occasional live music on Sundays, with an alternative flavour. M° Gare-de-l'Est. Tues–Fri 11am–2am, Sat 3pm–4am, Sun 3pm–8pm.

China Express Nord 3 bd Denain, 10^e. Friendly Chinese deli and café a few steps south of the Gare du Nord. Good for something hot and inexpensive while you wait for your train. M° Gare-du-Nord. Mon–Sat 10.30am–10.30pm.

L'Enchotte 11 rue de Chabrol, 10^e tel 01.48.00.05.25. A pleasantly ramshackle wine bar opposite the St-Quentin market, with tobacco-stained paintwork and a simple tiled floor. Cheese and charcuterie at around €10, as well as more substantial dishes. M° Gare-de-l'Est. Mon–Fri 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm; closed last two weeks of Aug.

Le Réveil du Dixième 35 rue du Château-d'Eau, 10^e tel 01.42.41.77.59. A welcoming, unpretentious wine bar serving glasses of wine and regional plats at around €10. M° Château-d'Eau. Mon–Sat 7.15am–9pm.

Restaurants

Baalbeck 16 rue de Mazagran, 10^e tel 01.47.70.70.02. Much liked by the moneyed refugees, this Lebanese restaurant has dozens of appetizers. For €50 you can have a representative selection for two, with arak to drink. Belly-dancing and sticky Levantine/Turkish cakes, too. Very busy, so reserve or go early. M° Bonne-Nouvelle. Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30pm–midnight.

Chez Arthur 25 rue du Faubourg-St-Martin, 10^e tel 01.42.08.34.33. An easygoing, attractive restaurant, popular with theatregoers and actors, especially for post-theatre dining – it actually stays open beyond the official serving hours. The cuisine can be interesting, too, with appealing variations on the usual suspects on the €20 menu. M° Strasbourg-St-Denis. Mon 7–11.30pm, Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7–11.30pm.

La Consigne 2 bd de Denain, 10^e tel 01.48.78.22.94. Bog-standard Parisian brasserie, but it's right opposite the Gare du Nord. The waiters are understandably jaded by the constant flow of out-of-towners, but the €10 plats du jour are reliable classics like moulesfrites and steak, and there's pleasant seating in the window and on the pavement. Food served till 11pm. M° Gare-du-Nord. Daily 6am–1am.

Flo 7 cours des Petites-Écuries, 10^e tel 01.47.70.13.59. Dark, extremely handsome old-time brasserie where you eat elbow to elbow at long tables, served by waiters in ankle-length aprons. Fish and seafood are the specialities, but generally it's all excellent, as is the atmosphere. Good-value menu at €30.50, including wine, or €21.50 on weekday lunchtimes. M° Château-d'Eau. Daily until 1.30am.

Julien 16 rue du Faubourg-St-Denis, 10^e tel 01.47.70.12.06. Part of the same enterprise as Flo (see above), with an even more splendid decor – all globe lamps, hatstands, white linen, brass and polished wood. Serves the same good traditional French cuisine as Flo, at the same prices, and it's just as crowded. M° Strasbourg-St-Denis. Daily until 1am.

Pooja 91 passage Brady, 10^e tel 01.48.24.00.83. Located in a glazed passage that is Paris's own slice of the Indian subcontinent, Pooja is slightly pricier and sometimes slightly more elaborate than its many neighbours. Lunch formules for under €10; evening menu for just short of €20. M° Strasbourg-St-Denis/Château-d'Eau. Daily noon–3pm & 6–11pm; closed Mon lunchtime.

Terminus Nord 23 rue de Dunkerque, 10^e tel 01.42.85.05.15. 1920s brasserie with brusque staff and high prices, but the decor is magnificent, the food is usually good, unless you're eating at an odd time of day, and it's right opposite the Gare du Nord. M° Gare-du-Nord. Daily 11am–1am.

Batignolles

Cafés and Bars

L'Endroit 67 pl Félix-Lobligeois, 17^e. A smartish neighbourhood café and late-night bar, with a terrasse overlooking the attractive square. Youngish locals drop in for great cocktails (around €8), but it's also a great place for a copious Sunday brunch (€15). M° Rome/La Fourche. Daily noon–2am.

Le Morosophe 83 rue Legendre tel 01.53.06.82.82. Relaxed contemporary bistrot serving unpretentious, well-cooked seasonal dishes. Lunchtime menu at €12, evenings at €25. M° Brochant. Mon–Sat noon–12.30pm & 7–11pm.