The Champs-Élysées and Tuileries
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Fouquet

The Champs-Élysées and around

Cafés and Bars

Le Fouquet's 99 av des Champs-Élysées, 8^e tel 01.47.23.70.60. Dating from 1899, Le Fouquet's brasserie is such a well-established watering hole for the rich and famous, that it's now been classified a Monument Historique. You pay dearly to sit in the deep leather armchairs – the espresso at €4.60 must be the city's most expensive. The restaurant (last orders 11.30pm) isn't quite as pricey as you'd expect, however, with meals around €35, though there's little on the wine list for under €30. M° George-V. Daily till 1.30am.

Musée Jacquemart-André 158 bd Haussmann, 8^e. Part of the Musée Jacquemart-André but with independent access, this is the most sumptuously appointed salon de thé in the city. Admire the ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo while savouring the fine pastries or salads (€8–13). M° St-Philippe-du-Roule/Miromesnil. Daily 11.30am–5.30pm.

Le Rubis 10 rue du Marché-St-Honoré, 1^er. One of the oldest wine bars in Paris, known for its excellent wines – mostly from the Beaujolais and Loire regions – and homemade rillettes (a kind of pork paté). Very small and very crowded. Glasses of wine from €2.40 and plats du jour around €9. M° Pyramides. Mon–Fri 7.30am–10pm, Sat 9am–3pm; closed mid-Aug.

Restaurants

L'Appart' 9 rue du Colisée, 8^e tel 01.53.75.16.34. A stylish place popular with a young and trendy crowd. There's a bar downstairs and restaurant upstairs resembling an elegant living room, with wood panelling, fireplaces and deep red fabrics. Classic French dishes on a €30 menu, with wine starting at €22 a bottle. M° St-Philippe-du-Roule. Restaurant: daily noon–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm. Bar: daily noon to midnight (11pm on Sun & Mon).

Dragons Élysées 11 rue de Berri, 8^e tel 01.42.89.85.10. The Chinese–Thai cuisine includes dim sum, curried seafood and baked mussels, but the overriding attraction is the extraordinary decor. Beneath the glass-tile floor water runs from pool to pool inhabited by exotic fish. Water even pours down part of one wall, and on the ceiling pinpoints of light imitate stars, all amid the standard chinoiserie of red lanterns and black furniture. Evening menu €33. M° George-V. Daily 11am–3pm & 7–11pm.

La Fermette Marbeuf 1900 5 rue Marbeuf, 8^e tel 01.53.23.08.00. The main reason to come here is for the superb Art Nouveau decor: try to get a table in the tiled and domed inner room. The classic French cuisine isn't bad either, though not especially cheap; a set meal costs €29.30. Despite the rather well-heeled clientele, foreign as well as French, it's not stuffy. M° Franklin-D.Roosevelt. Daily noon–3pm & 7–11.30pm.

Lasserre 17 av Franklin-D.Roosevelt, 8^e tel 01.43.59.53.43. Exquisite haute cuisine restaurant with a beautiful belle époque dining room, decorated with flower-draped balustrades and graced with an extraordinary roof, which can be rolled back on balmy summer days. The cuisine has reached new heights recently with the arrival of chef Jean-Louis Nomicos, trained by Alain Ducasse; highlights include his lemon-crust seabass and sublime duck à l'orange, though you can't go wrong whatever you choose. As you'd expect, prices are high – à la carte you'll pay upwards of €120, not including wine, though you can eat more cheaply if you come at lunchtime and opt for the €55 prix fixe menu. The place to come for a special occasion. M° Franklin-D.Roosevelt. Mon–Fri noon–2pm & 7.30–10pm.

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte 15 rue Marbeuf, 8^e. If you like steak, this is the place to come. There's no main-course menu, the only dish being steak and frites. This is no ordinary steak though – it's served with a delicious sauce, the ingredients of which are a closely kept secret. Count on €19.80 a head, including a salad first course, or €25 with dessert. There's a second branch at 20bis rue St-Benoit, 6^e (M° St-Germain-des-Prés). M° Franklin-D.Roosevelt. Noon–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm.

Rue Balzac 3–5 rue Balzac, 8^e. Tel 01.53.89.90.91. This super-stylish, buzzing restaurant is the enterprise of singer Johnny Hallyday and chef Michel Rostang. The low lighting and subdued reds and yellows of the decor provide an atmospheric backdrop to classy cuisine, available in small or large servings ("petit modèle" and "grand modèle"); most people find the former filling enough. Three courses with wine comes to around €60. M° George-V. Daily noon–2pm & 7.30–11pm.

Spoon, Food and Wine 14 rue de Marignan, 8^e tel 01.40.76.34.44. An innovative world-food bistrot opened by star chef Alain Ducasse a few years ago and an instant success. The chic, minimalist decor and inventive cuisine, marrying unusual flavours and ingredients, attract a fashionable crowd. Expect to pay around €50 a head. M° Franklin-D.Roosevelt. Noon–2pm & 7.30–11pm; closed Sat, Sun & mid-July to mid-Aug.

Le Tillsit 14 rue de Tilsitt, 8^e. A stone's throw away from the Arc de Triomphe and sporting a gaudy glass centrepiece, this otherwise unassuming little brasserie is a locals' favourite and fills up quickly at lunchtime. Plats du jour might include turban de sole à la dieppoise (€9.50) or paupiette de veau à la bolognaise (€11). Salads (€11) are mountainous and filling. Service is courteous and efficient. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile. Daily 7am–midnight.

Yvan 1 bis rue J-Mermoz, 8^e tel 01.43.59.18.40. A good place for a special meal out, this is a classy restaurant with plush interior and deep-red walls hung with paintings. The excellent cuisine is New French and includes dishes such as pigeon with polenta. Three courses and wine for around €60. M° Franklin-D.Roosevelt. Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 8pm–midnight, Sat eve only; closed Sat lunch & Sun.

The Tuileries

Cafés

Angélina 226 rue de Rivoli, 1^er. Long-established gilded cage, where the well-coiffed sip the best hot chocolate in town – a generous jugful with whipped cream on the side will set you back €6. Patisseries (around €5) and savouries are of the same high quality.

Café Véry (also known as Dame Tartine) Jardin des Tuileries, 1^er. The best of a number of café-restaurants in the gardens, with tables outside under shady horse chestnuts. Snacks and more substantial meals available (€5–8). It's especially popular at lunch, so be sure to turn up in good time. M° Tuileries. Mon–Fri 9.15am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9.15am–7.30pm; closed Tues in July & Aug. M° Concorde. Daily noon–11pm.