Cafés and BarsBerthillon 31 rue St-Louis-en-l'Île, Île St-Louis, 4e. Long queues form for these excellent ice creams and sorbets (€3.65 a triple) which come in all sorts of unusual fruity flavours, such as rhubarb. They're also available at other island sites listed on the door. M° Pont-Marie. Wed–Sun 10am–8pm. Taverne Henri IV 13 pl du Pont-Neuf, Île de la Cité, 1er. Old-style wine bar with formica tables and net curtains that's probably changed little since Yves Montand used to come here with Simone Signoret. It's best to drop in at lunchtime when it's at its buzziest, usually full of lawyers from the nearby Palais de Justice. Wine by the glass starts at €3.50; generous plates of meats and cheeses for around €11, tartines (with a choice of cheeses, hams, pâté and saucisson) are €4.60. M° Pont-Neuf. Mon–Fri 11.30am–3.30pm & 6–9pm, Sat noon–4pm; closed Sun & Aug. Restaurants Les Fous de l'Île 33 rue des Deux-Ponts, 4e. Reminiscent of a slightly fusty Victorian pantry, with old china teapots and empty bottles in glass cabinets, this neighbourhood restaurant/salon de thé makes a refreshing change from the more touristy places on the main thoroughfare. It does light lunches, such as goat's cheese salad, for around €11, and from 3pm to 7pm serves tea and cakes, as well as Berthillon ice creams. The à la carte dinner menu features dishes such as pavé de foie de veau au caramel balsamique (€14). The only drawback is the slightly offhand service. M° Pont-Marie. Dinner until 11pm; closed Sat midday, Sun evening & Mon all day. Brunch on Sunday. Live jazz Tues & Wed from 10pm. Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois 39 rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile, 4e tel 01.46.33.66.07, www.nosancetreslesgaulois.com. A virtual Gaulois (Asterix and Obelix) theme park, with rustic tables and musty animal skins, this restaurant offers a copious all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffet, including grilled beef or lamb, a choice of vegetables, including excellent ratatouille, and a huge cheese platter, all for €35; a true feast. There's also a children's menu for €15. M° Pont-Marie. Mon–Sat 7pm–2am, Sun noon–4pm & 7pm–2am. Le Relais de l'Île 37 rue St-Louis-en-l'Île, 4e tel 01.46.34.72.34. Eight small tables are crammed into the ground floor of this cosy, candlelit jazz-restaurant with several more on a wooden mezzanine balcony. The food is reasonable (if not exceptional) – you'll pay around €45 for three courses with wine, with mains like rabbit in prune sauce or lemon chicken with honey – but it's the ambience that makes this place special: the convivial atmosphere, friendly service, the pianist tinkling away, and the chef occasionally popping out from the kitchen to join in. M° Pont-Marie. Noon–2pm & 7.30–11pm; closed Tues.
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