The source of the Sorgue, the stream that runs alongside rue des Teinturiers in Avignon, is at FONTAINE-DE-VAUCLUSE, 29km southeast of Avignon, and is one of the most powerful natural springs in the world. At the top of the gorge above the village is a mysterious tapering fissure deeper than the sheer 230-metre cliffs that barricade its opening. This is where the waters of the Sorgue appear, sometimes in spectacular fashion, bursting down the gorge (in March and April normally), other times seeping stealthily through subterranean channels to meet the river bed further down. The best time to admire it is in the early morning before the crowds arrive.Fontaine-de-Vaucluse was once a rustic backwater where the fourteenth-century poet Petrarch pined for his Laura. It remains a somewhat romantic place despite its hordes of visitors. If you're intrigued by the source of the river, visit the L'Ecomusée du Gouffre (hourly 45-minute tours in French: Feb–June & Sept–Nov Wed–Mon 10am–noon & 2–6pm; July & Aug daily 9.30am–7.30pm; closed Dec & Jan; €5) in the underground commercial centre alongside the chemin de la Fontaine, the path to the source. At the upper end of the centre, you'll find a re-creation of the medieval method of pulping rags to paper – using river power – with a vast array of printed matter on the product for sale. On chemin de la Fontaine, there's also the impressive Musée d'Histoire 1939–1945 (March & Nov–Dec Sat & Sun 10am–noon & 2–6pm; April–June & Sept–Oct Wed–Mon 10am–noon & 2–6pm; July & Aug Wed–Mon 10am–7pm; €5), portraying life under the Vichy regime and commemorating the Resistance. Nearby you'll find the rather dull Musée du Santon (mid-April to mid-Oct Wed–Sun 10am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm; mid-Oct to mid-April Sat & Sun 9.30am–noon & 2–6.30pm; €3.80), displaying an unremarkable collection of Provençal Nativity figures. Across the river, through an alleyway just past the bridge, is the much more interesting Musée de Pétrarque (mid-April to mid-Oct Wed–Sun 9.30am–noon & 2–6pm; mid-Oct to Nov weekends only; €3.50), with beautiful books dating back to the fifteenth century and pictures of Petrarch, his beloved Laura and of Fontaine, where he passed sixteen years of his unrequited passion. The tourist office is on chemin de la Fontaine (Mon–Sat: July & Aug 9am–7pm; Sept–June 10am–7pm; tel 04.90.20.32.22, [email protected]). The cheapest and most characterful hotel in the village itself is the Grand Hôtel des Sources (tel 04.90.20.31.84, fax 04.90.20.39.09; €55–70), with a whole variety of vieille France rooms. On the road out towards Semanque, 3km from the village, are two hotels worth trying: L'Ermitage (tel 04.90.20.32.20, fax 04.90.20.28.95; €40–55) and Font de Lauro (tel & fax 04.90.20.31.49; €30–40). There's also a hostel on chemin de la Vignasse, 1km south on the road to Lagnes (tel 04.90.20.31.65, [email protected]; closed mid-Nov to Feb; €10.70 per bed), and a campsite, Les Pres (tel 04.90.20.32.38; all year), 500m downstream from the village, with tennis courts and swimming pool. For food, you have a choice of several reasonably priced restaurants in town, including Château (tel 04.90.20.13.54; closed Sun & Mon eves out of season) and Lou Fanau (tel 04.90.20.31.90; closed Wed), both of which have menus of solid regional food for about €16.
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