| Stes-Maries is an extremely pretty, if excessively commercialized town. Its streets of white houses and the grey-gold Romanesque church, with its strange outline of battlements and watchtower, have been turned into one long picture-postcard pose. It exploits its monopoly as the only Camargue resort and every leisure activity is catered for, to excess. There are kilometres of beach; a pleasure port with boat trips to the lagoons; horses or bikes to ride; watersports; the arènes for bullfights, cavalcades and other entertainment (events are posted on a board outside); and flamenco guitarists playing on the restaurant and café terraces – it can all be very good fun. As for sights, the fortified church of Stes-Maries allows a look at Sarah's tinselled and sequinned statue, which is carried into the sea each year. It's at the back of the crypt on the right, and always surrounded by candles and abandoned crutches and callipers from the miraculously cured. The church itself has beautifully pure lines and fabulous acoustics. During the time of the Saracen raids it provided shelter for all the villagers and even has its own freshwater well. Between March and October the church tower is open (10am–12.30pm & 2pm–sunset; €2), affording the best possible view over the Camargue. A few steps south of the church on rue Victor-Hugo, the Musée Baroncelli (opening hours vary, check with tourist office; €1.50) is named after the man who, in 1935, was responsible for initiating the Romanies' procession down to the sea with Sarah. This was motivated by a desire to give a special place in the pilgrimage to the Romanies. The museum covers this event, other Camarguais traditions and the region's fauna and flora.
| 
