Dentelles and around
France > Provence > Western > Dentelles

Dentelles Montmirail © OT Vaucluse

The Dentelles, a row of jagged limestone pinnacles, run across an arid, windswept and near-deserted upland area, the Massif Montmirail-St-Amand, just south of Vaison-la-Romaine. Their name refers to lace – the limestone protrusions were thought to resemble the contorted pins on a lace-making board – though the word's alternative connection with teeth (dents means "teeth") is equally appropriate.

The area is best known for its wines. On the western and southern slopes lie the wine-producing villages of Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise, Sablet, Séguret, Vacqueyras and, across the River Ouvèze, Rasteau. Each one carries the distinction of having its own individual appellation contrôlée within the Côtes du Rhône or Côtes du Rhône Villages areas: in other words, their wines are exceptional. In addition, some of the villages are alluringly picturesque, with Séguret super-conscious of its Provençal beauty.

The most reputed red wine in the Dentelles is made at Gigondas – it's strong with an aftertaste of spice and nuts. You can taste the produce from forty different domaines at the Caveau des Vignerons on place de la Mairie in the village (daily 10am–noon & 2–6pm). The most distinctive wine, and elixir for those who like it sweet, is the pale amber-coloured Beaumes-de-Venise muscat which you can buy from the Cave des Vignerons (Mon–Sat 8.30am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm & 2–6pm) on the D7 just outside Beaumes.

Besides dégustation and bottle-buying, you can go for long walks in the Dentelles, stumbling upon mysterious ruins or photogenic panoramas of Mont Ventoux and the Rhône valley. The pinnacles are favourite scaling faces for apprentice rock-climbers – though their wind-eroded patterns can be appreciated just as well without risking your neck on an ascent. Information on walking and climbing is available from the gîte, as well as Gigondas' tourist office on place du Portail (July & Aug 10am–noon & 2–7pm; rest of year 10am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 04.90.65.85.46, [email protected]), which also sells a local footpath map for €2.50.

Although it's possible to get to the villages by public transport from Vaison or Carpentras, your own vehicle is definitely an advantage. You can rent bikes at Café du Cours, in the centre of Vacqueyras. Hotel possibilities include, in Beaumes, the old-fashioned and quiet Auberge St-Roch, on avenue Jules-Ferry (tel 04.90.65.08.21; €30–40; restaurant closed Wed & Thurs eve), and Le Relais des Dentelles, past the old village and over the river (tel 04.90.62.95.27; €30–40; restaurant closed Mon). Gigondas has Les Florets, 2km from the village along the route des Dentelles (tel 04.90.65.85.01, fax 04.90.65.83.80; over €150, half-board obligatory in season), and the more upmarket Hôtel Montmirail, which you reach via Vacqueyras (tel 04.90.65.84.01, hotelmontmirail.com; €55–70; closed Nov to late March). There are also campsites in Sablet (tel 04.90.46.82.55), Beaumes (tel 04.90.62.95.07) and Vacqueyras (tel 04.90.65.84.24, fax 04.90.65.83.28), and a gîte d'étape at the entrance to Gigondas (tel 04.90.65.80.85, www.provence-trekking.com; closed Jan & Feb; under €30), with double rooms and dormitory accommodation (€11).

Besides the restaurants of the hotels mentioned above, places to stop to eat or drink are few and far between once you leave the villages. In Séguret Le Bastide Bleue, route de Sablet (tel 04.90.46.83.43; closed Wed in winter; menus €21.50), is renowned for its use of fresh local ingredients. In Gigondas L'Oustalet, place du Portail (tel 04.90.65.85.30; closed Mon & Sun eve; menus €39), has a pleasant shaded terrace and serves hearty home-style food; cheaper eats can be had at the Café de la Poste on rue Principale.