Gorges du Verdon and around
France > Provence > Eastern > Gorges du Verdon

Verdon © William Shen wwshen.com

From Aups, the road north leads to the western end of the Gorges du Verdon. A more dramatic approach crosses the vast military terrain of the Camp de Canjuers from Comps-sur-Artuby. The road runs west through 16km of deserted heath and hills, with each successive horizon higher than the last. When you reach the canyon, it's as if a silent earthquake had taken place during your journey.

From this vantage point, known as the Balcons de la Mescla, you look down 250m to the base of the V-shaped, 21-kilometre-long gorge incised by the River Verdon through piled strata of limestone. Ever changing in its volume and energy, the river falls from Rougon at the top of the gorge, disappearing into tunnels, decelerating for shallow, languid moments and finally exiting in full, steady flow at the Pont de Galetas. The huge artificial Lac de Ste-Croix, filled by the Verdon as it leaves the gorge, is great for swimming when the water levels are high; otherwise the beach becomes a bit sludgy. West from the Balcons runs the Corniche sublime, the D71, built expressly to give the most breathtaking and hair-raising views. On the north side, the Route des Crêtes, the D952, does the same, at some points looking down a sheer 800-metre drop to the sliver of water below.

The entire circuit around the gorge is 130km long and it's cycling country solely for the preternaturally fit. Even for drivers it's hard work, as the hidden bends and hairpins in the road are perilous and, in July and August, so is the traffic.

Public transport around the canyon is less than comprehensive. There's just one bus between Aix, Moustiers, La Palud, Rougon and Castellane on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday from July to mid-September; and one other bus daily except Sunday between La Palud, Rougon and Castellane in July and August.