The sole town base for exploring the Luberon is APT, though in itself it's not much of a town for sightseeing, nor is it renowned for the charm and friendliness of its people. Its large confectionery factory spews mucky froth into the concrete-channelled River Coulon and, as late as early spring, when mimosa is blossoming down on the coast, the temperature around Apt can drop to well below freezing. It cheers up, however, every Saturday for the weekly market when cars are barred from the town centre to allow artisans and cultivators from all the surrounding countryside to set up stalls. As well as featuring every imaginable Provençal edible, the market is accompanied by barrel organs, jazz musicians, stand-up comics, aged hippies and assorted freaks.Arriving by bus – Apt's gare SNCF is freight-only – you'll be dropped at place de la Bouquerie, the main square lined with cafés and restaurants, or at the gare routière on avenue de la Libération at the eastern end of the town (tel 04.90.74.20.21). The tourist office is at 20 av Philippe-de-Girard (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–7pm, Sun 9am–noon; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 04.90.74.03.18), just up to the left from place de la Bouquerie as you face the river. There's a good choice of accommodation in Apt, unlike the more scenic hilltop villages, where all rooms are reserved months before the summer season. On the southeastern edge of the town centre is the friendly L'Aptois, 289 cours Lauze de Perret (tel 04.90.74.02.02, fax 04.90.74.64.79; €30–40); while the more basic Du Palais, 24 place Gabriel-Péri (tel 04.90.04.89.32, fax 04.90.04.71.61; €30–40; closed mid-Oct to March) is right in the centre; and there are very pleasant rooms across the river at the Auberge du Luberon, 8 place du Faubourg du Ballet (tel 04.90.74.12.50, www.auberge-luberon-peuzin.com; €55–70). Campers, for once, are treated to a municipal ground within easy walking distance of the town: Les Cèdres on avenue de Viton (tel 04.90.74.14.61; closed Dec to mid-Feb), across the bridge from place St-Pierre, €9 for two people and a tent. Outside Apt, you could try the Auberge du Presbytère on place de la Fontaine in the village of SAIGNON, perched on a hillside 4km southeast of Apt (tel 04.90.74.11.50, www.provence-luberon.com; €55–70); the rustic Auberge des Seguins, tucked away in a spectacular canyon near BUOUX, a village 10km south of Apt (tel 04.90.74.16.37, fax 04.90.74.03.26; €40–55), which also has a restaurant; or the welcoming Relais de Roquefure (tel 04.90.04.88.88, fax 04.90.74.14.86; €55–70) in LE CHÊNE, 6km from Apt on the N100 towards Avignon, which organizes horse and cycle outings. If you haven't stuffed yourself with chocolates and candied fruit (Apt's speciality), you can get cheap and decent meals at the Grand Café Grégoire on place Bouquerie (open till midnight). More entertainingly Dakota, in the industrial zone on the Avignon road opposite the turning to Gargas, is a Tex-Mex restaurant which doubles up as a disco with theme nights (tel 04.90.74.22.18; menus around €18.30). Further out on the Avignon road, at Le Chêne, there's real gourmandise to be had at Bernard Mathys (tel 04.90.04.84.64; closed Tues & Wed; menus from €25).
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