| The D2566 from the Vésubie valley joins the Roya valley at SOSPEL, a dreamy Italianate town spanning the gentle River Bévéra. You may find it over-tranquil after the excitements of the high mountains or the flashy speed of the Côte d'Azur, but it can make a pleasant break. The main street, avenue Jean-Médecin, follows the river on its southern bank. The central bridge, the Vieux Pont, was built in the eleventh century to link the town centre on the south bank with its suburb across the river. The best approach to the old town is from the eastern place St-Pierre, along the gloomy, deeply shadowed rue St-Pierre. Suddenly it opens up into place St-Michel, one of the most beautiful series of peaches-and-cream Baroque facades in all Provence, made up of the Église St-Michel, two chapels and several arcaded houses. The road behind the church, rue de l'Abbaye, reached by steps between the chapels, leads up to an ivy-covered castle ruin, from which you get a good view of the town. An even better view can be had from the Fort St-Roch, part of the ignominious interwar Maginot Line, along chemin de St-Roch, which houses the Musée de la Résistance, illustrating the courageous local Resistance movement during World War II (April–May & Oct Sat & Sun 2–6pm; June–Sept Tues–Sun 2–6pm; €5). The gare SNCF is southeast of the town on avenue A.-Borriglione, which becomes avenue des Martyrs-de-la-Résistance, before leading down to the park on place des Platanes opposite place St-Pierre. The tourist office is housed in the Vieux Pont (daily: Easter–Sept 10am–noon & 2–6pm; rest of year 10am–noon & 2–5pm; tel 04.93.04.15.80, fax 04.93.04.19.96). If you want to stay, the Hôtel de France, 9 bd de Verdun (tel 04.93.04.00.01, fax 04.93.04.20.46; €55–70), and the Auberge Provençale, on route du Col de Castillon, 1500m uphill from the town (tel 04.93.04.00.31, [email protected]; €55–70), offer comparable quality, the latter with a pleasant garden and terrace from which to admire the town. There are five campsites around Sospel, the closest of which is Le Mas Fleuri in quartier La Vasta (tel 04.93.04.14.94, fax 04.93.04.14.86; all year; €12 for two people and a tent), with its own pool, 2km along the D2566 to Moulinet, following the river upstream. There are various eating places along avenue Jean-Médecin. Alternatively, try L'Escargot d'Or, 3 rue de Verdun (tel 04.93.04.00.43; closed Mon & Nov), just across the eastern bridge, where you can eat for between €11.50 and €26 on a terrace above the river.
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