Once in the Garbet valley, the road drops quickly west to AULUS-LES-BAINS, a remote village lying among moist and fragrant meadows ringed by dramatic peaks. Like other spa towns, Aulus enjoyed its moment of glory and fell again into rustic somnolence, from which it is trying to resurrect itself once more. This is country for walking and enjoying the landscapes: there's nothing else, and, remote though it feels, it's not inaccessible – there are one to three daily buses (Mon–Sat) to St-Girons. The classic walk here involves heading south to the Étang de Guzet and then east to the Cascade d'Ars on a bit of the GR10, then returning to Aulus via the stream draining from it (round trip about 5hr).For summer bike rental and information on other activities, consult the tourist office in the allée des Thermes (daily: July & Aug 10am–1pm & 2–7pm; Sept–June 10am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 05.61.96.00.01). Among places to stay, try the beautiful, turreted Les Oussaillès (tel 05.61.96.03.68, www.ariege.com/les-oussailles; €30–40; closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec), with a restaurant serving a hearty, four-course menu de jour for under €16 and English-speaking staff, or the more comfortable, antique-furnished Hôtel La Terrasse (tel 05.61.96.00.98, fax 05 61 96.01.42; €30–40; closed Oct–May), both near the spa. There's also a gîte d'étape 150m downhill from the church, La Presbytère (tel 05.61.96.02.21; open all year), and camping at Le Couledous (tel 05.61.96.02.26; open all year), 500m west along the river.
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