Montségur
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Montségur

The village of MONTSÉGUR is strung out in terraced lines at the foot of its castle rock. Silent and depopulated now, the place comes to life only with the influx of tourists, most of them day-trippers. It's worth having a glance at the one-room museum (daily: Feb & Dec 2–5pm; March, April & Oct 2–6pm; May–Aug 10am–12.30pm & 2–7.30pm; Sept 10.30am–noon & 2–5.30pm; Nov 2–5.30pm; €0.25), with its collection of bits and pieces from the castle, before going up to the ruin itself.

A footpath from the top of the village shortens the way up to the saddle of the hill and the Prats des Cramats, the field where the Cathar martyrs were burnt. From here it's a steep half-hour climb to the Château (Feb & Dec weather permitting Tues–Sun 10am–4pm; March daily 10am–5pm; April & Oct daily 9.30am–6pm; May–Aug daily 9am–7.30pm; Sept daily 9am–6pm; Nov daily 10am–5.30pm; €3.70), of which all that remain are the stout and now truncated curtain walls and keep. The space within is terribly cramped, and one can easily imagine the sufferings of the besieged. A somewhat precarious stairway leads to the top of the walls, from where you look out over kilometres of forested hills and snowy peaks, giving a sense of solitude and airy isolation that is in itself highly evocative. Climbing on the castle walls has been forbidden for 15 years because of conservation and security reasons.

In summer there's a tourist office in the village (February-December daily normally 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; call ahead on 05.61.03.03.03, www.montsegur.fr); at other times you'll have to go to the one in Lavelanet. There are a couple of hotels, the nicest of them the old-fashioned Hôtel Couquet (tel 05.61.01.10.28; €30–40), fronted by pollarded lime trees. The alternative is the more expensive Hôtel Costes (tel 05.61.01.10.24, fax 05.61.03.06.28; closed mid-Nov to May; €30–40; menus from €12), which also has a gîte d'étape. There is also a camping in the village for €2.60 a night a person.