ST-LIZIER, a five-minute ride by bus from the old gare SNCF on the St-Gaudens road, totally outclasses St-Girons in the tourism stakes. It sits on a hilltop, and is full of history; it's walled, arcaded, cobbled, cathedraled, half-timbered, pretty, and lifeless outside of summer.Architecturally the most interesting building in town is the Cathédrale de St-Lizier (May–Oct daily 10am–noon & 2–7pm; Nov–April Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; free), with its distinctive octagonal tower posing photogenically against the mountains to the south. Inside are some twelfth-century frescoes faded almost to invisibility, and a fine Romanesque cloister, also twelfth-century, with an array of unique, sculpted column capitals. A second cathedral, Nôtre-Dame-de-Sède, within the grounds of the bishop's palace, is closed indefinitely for renovation, though the palace is also home to the Musée Départmentale de l'Ariège on the first floor (April–June, Sept & Oct Tues–Sun 2–5.30pm; July & Aug daily 10am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm; €4), which contains a permanent ethnographic collection devoted to the Vallée du Bethmale, not really worth the admission fee. It is, however, worth walking up to the palace anyway, for views over St-Lizier, and continuing on round the old ramparts (same hours; free). The helpful tourist office is located by the lower cathedral (May–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 2–6pm; Nov–April Sat & Sun 2–6pm; tel 05.61.96.77.77). There are some excellent accommodation options, including the renovated Hôtel de la Tour (tel 05.61.66.38.02, [email protected]; €40–55), down by the River Salat on rue du Pont, which features a gourmet yet affordable restaurant overlooking the rapids; you can eat superbly for just €18, or resort to the more economical weekday lunch menu. For all hotels, you'll need to book ahead during the town's international music festival (information on 05.61.66.67.89) in the first half of August as rooms are much in demand.
| 