For those with a tent, there's the stunningly located Camping La Bergerie (tel 05.62.92.48.41; closed Nov to mid-May) on the true right bank of the gave, on the cirque side of the village. The facilities leave a great deal to be desired, but the site is away from the crowds and has a view right into the cirque. The other campsite, Le Pain de Sucre (tel & fax 05.62.92.47.55; closed Oct–Christmas & Easter–May), is on the Luz side of the village.As for hotels, inexpensive options include the historic, though poorly maintained, Les Voyageurs, at the entrance of the village (tel 05.62.92.48.01, fax 05.62.92.40.89; €30–40), which has been run by the same family since 1740; its "Golden Book" contains the signatures of Count Henry Russell, the eccentric pioneer of Pyrenean mountaineering, George Sand, Flaubert and Hugo among others. The beds here, so the whisper goes, witnessed the conception of Napoléon III in an illicit encounter between Hortense de Beauharnais and a local berger. Failing that, try the small Hôtel Compostelle by the church (tel 05.62.92.49.43, [email protected]; closed Oct to late-Dec; €30–40), whose management offers guided walks. Otherwise, the best bets are the CAF refuge, Les Granges de Holle, on the Port de Gavarnie road (tel 05.62.92.48.77; closed Nov), which also does meals, and the high-standard gîte d'étape Le Gypaëte (tel 05.62.92.40.61), just below Les Voyageurs. The only surviving independent restaurant of note is Le P'tit Toy, beyond the Compostelle, with two appetizing menus below €20. For weather information and snow conditions, ask the CRS mountain rescue unit opposite La Bergerie (or ring 08.36.68.02.65); for general tourist information, ask at the Maison du Parc (Mon–Sat 9.30am–noon & 1.30–6.30pm; tel 05.62.92.49.10) as you come into the village.
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