Thirty kilometres south of Carhaix on the D769, the secluded town of LE FAOUËT is served by neither buses nor trains but is distinguished mainly by its large old market hall. Above a floor of mud and straw, still used by local traders, rises an intricate latticework of ancient wood, propped on granite pillars and topped by a little clock tower.The church at ST-FIACRE, just over 2km south, is notable for its rood screen, brightly polychromed and carved as intricately as lace. The original purpose of a rood screen was to separate the chancel from the congregation – the decorations of this 1480 masterpiece go rather further than that. They depict scenes from the Old and New Testaments as well as a dramatic series on the wages of sin. Drunkenness is demonstrated by a man somehow vomiting a fox; theft by a peasant stealing apples; and so on. The hotel Croix d'Or, opposite the old market in the heart of Le Faouët at 9 place Bellanger (tel 02.97.23.07.33; €40–55; closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan, plus Sun evening & Mon in low season), serves a good €22 menu. At the ornate and gargoyle-coated church at KERNASCLÉDEN, 15km southeast of Le Faouët along the D782, the focus turns from carving to frescoes. The themes, however, contemporary with St-Fiacre, are equally gruesome. On the damp-infested wall of a side chapel, horned devils stoke the fires beneath a vast cauldron filled with the souls of the damned, and you may be able to discern the outlines of a Dance of Death, a faded cousin to that at Kermaria. Alternate spellings:: France, Le Faouët, Le Faouët, Le Faouet
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