VILLENEUVE-SUR-LOT, 75km west and downstream from Cahors, is a pleasant, workaday sort of town but otherwise does not have a great deal to commend it: there are no very interesting sights, though the handful of attractive timbered houses in the old town go some way to compensate. If you're reliant on public transport note that there's no train station in Villeneuve itself, but SNCF runs regular bus services to Agen, which is on the BordeauxToulouse line.The town's most striking landmark is the red-brick tower of the church of Ste-Catherine, completed as late as 1937 in typically dramatic neo-Byzantine style, but rather unusually built on a northsouth axis; inside, the church retains some attractive stained glass from the previous fourteenth-century building. In the streets around the main square, place La Fayette, a couple of towers alone survive from the fortifications of this originally bastide town, and to the south the main avenue, rue des Cieutats, crosses thirteenth-century Pont des Cieutat, resembling the Pont Valentré in Cahors but devoid of its towers. The tourist office, 47 rue de Paris (July & Aug daily 9am12.30pm & 1.307pm; SeptJune MonSat 9amnoon & 26pm; tel 05.53.36.17.30, www.ville-villeneuve-sur-lot.fr), lies just within the town's northern gate. The best place to look for accommodation is around the former train station, five minutes' walk south of centre, where the friendly La Résidence, 17 av Lazare-Carnot (tel 05.53.40.17.03, [email protected]; under €30; closed for Christmas & New Year), offers unbeatable value for money. If it's full, try nearby Le Terminus (tel 05.53.70.94.36, fax 05.53.70.45.13; €3040; restaurant from €9.20), or, if you'd rather be closer to the centre, Les Platanes, 40 bd de la Marine (tel 05.53.40.11.40, fax 05.53.70.71.95; under €30; restaurant from €12.50), north along boulevard de la République from the tourist office. For campers, there's the Camping du Rooy, signed off the Agen road 1.5km south of the centre (tel 05.53.70.24.18; closed Oct to mid-April). When it comes to eating, Chez Câline in rue Notre-Dame (closed Tues; menus from €12), near the Pont des Cieutat, is a pretty little place offering inventive dishes. L'Entracte, 30 bd de la Marine (closed Wed; menus from €12), caters to more traditional tastes, while the nearby La Galerie, 38 bd de la Marine (tel 05.53.71.52.12; closed Mon eve & Tues), is the place go for a bit more luxury and classic cuisine; lunchtime menus start at €13 and at €14.50 for dinner. Alternatively, head south to Pujols. Pages in section ‘Villeneuve-sur-Lot’: Pujols and Penne d'Agenais.
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